Explore Taormina like a Sicilian. An authentic insider’s guide

Last Updated on November 14, 2023 by

Taormina, the pearl of the Ionian Sea. A perfect place to escape the bustling chaos of the Sicilian main cities without losing an easy access to the beaches and a jaw-dropping view on the Mt. Etna. With this insider’s guide to Taormina, you can explore it like a Sicilian. Moreover, you will discover not only all the best things to do, but also the things to avoid (e.g. tourist traps).

Why an insider’s guide?

For half of my life, before moving to the UK, I lived in Sicily. My parents live in Catania and that’s is just a half an hour drive from Taormina. As a good Sicilian, Taormina was kind of a constant presence in my life since my childhood. From my family summer visits to the beach of Isola Bella with afternoon strolls into Taormina to my Christmas trips to visit the city’s decorations to my date nights with my husband strolling with a gelato in the Ancient Theatre. I know Taormina VERY WELL. I’ve seen it in all her four seasons and I can literally take you around and being your tour guide with my eyes closed.

Therefore, when I tell you this is an insider’s guide to Taormina, it’s not just a random title. I am not just a tourist who visited the town and pretend to give you nonsense suggestions copying the contents of this blog. I tell you this, because since this guide was published in 2021 (and updated several times since then), I seen 3/4 other bloggers copying the exact title and content of this blog pretending to be the “insiders” when they just stayed in Taormina one hour of their life.

This guide has this title because it’s the original one. I am an insider because I am Sicilian! Plus, I visited Taormina probably a three thousand times during my life and I can give you the best advice for visiting the town. I feel responsible for people having a good time when visiting Sicily. Therefore, be wary of these fake insiders when taking suggestions for your trips!

10 Things to know before visiting Sicily

1. Sicily is an Italian REGION like Lombardy or Tuscany. Sorry for specifying this, but not much time ago I’ve seen an article talking about Sicily as a generic “Italian island” and this made me realise that people don’t know much of Sicily. Yes Sicily it’s also an island but, like Sardinia, it has a major administrative role in Italy compared to smaller Italian islands like Elba, Lipari or Lampedusa.
2. Sicily’s capital city is Palermo but the second largest city is Catania (where I am from!). Both cities are beautiful and worth visiting for different reasons. If you are planning a trip to Sicily, it’s a good idea to visit both.
3. Please ignore everything people tell you about mafia. It happened to me very frequently (sadly more frequently than I wished) that foreign people (and even some Italians from the north) were scared or concerned about visiting Sicily because of what they heard about mafia. I could write an entire article about this, but for the moment, let me tell you that people in Sicily don’t go around with guns and shooting everyone on their way (yes someone asked me also this). Sicily is generally very safe. Yes mafia is still present in certain parts of the island but it’s not something a common tourist or even a common Sicilian inhabitant will experience. Most of the news people hear about mafia are related to corruption in public institutions or pizzo (money asked to people in exchange of “protection”) asked to certain shopkeepers. Many of these shopkeepers are actively fighting mafia and, in this regard, I invite you to watch the episode Antony Bourdain did about Sicily especially when he talks about the movement addiopizzo (goodbye pizzo).
4. You will need a car to go around Sicily. Yes we do have public transport but, as a Sicilian, I would not rely on that unless you have plenty of time to loose. Public transport in Sicily is very slow and most tourist areas are not even connected to the main cities. So, it’s better to get a car.
5. Except highways and main city roads, countryside roads are pretty rough to drive. Be prepared to some bumps along dusty roads.
6. Food is exceptionally good in Sicily! It’s very rare to find a place that is not good. However, if you are vegetarian/vegan or you are allergic to gluten pay attention to the menus. If you are insecure, don’t be afraid of being direct and ask what you want. Some people, especially the older ones, are still not familiar with the terms “vegan” “vegetarian”. It’s better to say “I don’t eat meat”.
7. Pay attention to scams. If you are asking yourself why in Egypt I was totally fine with “the scam thing”, it’s because Sicily it’s quite the same. I was already used to this approach. Tourists (sometimes even residents) are frequently scammed for restaurant bills, car rentals, shopping or even their hotels. I’m not proud of this, but it do happens. Of course, not all the people are the same and most Sicilians are honest and kind people but if something smells you wrong, probably it is.
8. Abusive valet. Small and big cities in Sicily are unfortunately affected by the plague of “abusive valets”. People who want money to “keep your car safe” on the street when is parked. While these people are endlessly persecuted by the police, they continue to appear here and there especially in big cities like Catania and Palermo. If it happens to meet one, try to not give him money. When is possible, try to use official parking spaces or the one called “blu stripes –strisce blu” where you can pay the time you stay at a designated machine.
9. Don’t leave your personal belongings unattended. Small thefts are particularly frequent, especially in tourist areas. Never ever leave your stuff alone. Especially in bars, beaches, cars etc. it’s unfortunately very likely that you won’t find it anymore.
10. The sun is quite strong all year round. Temperatures in Sicily are warmly high for most of the year, even in winter. It might happen that around January-February temperatures go a little lower (6-15°) but most of the times they stay around 15-23°. Summer are roasting hot and it is better to have with you a good sun protection.

A history of Taormina

The Greek Age

The origins of Taormina lie between history and myth. Indeed, the city was born with the Greek name of Tauromenium, that means “place/dwelling on the Taurus”, the mountain where the city was founded.

According to the historian Diodoro, the city belonged to the Siculi population long before becoming a Greek colony. Indeed, it was around 396 – 406 BC. that the Greeks from Naxos (the first Greek colony in Sicily) took over the city from its local inhabitants. Sources on the colonisation of Taormina are actually contradictory. In fact, they state also that the city was used as a refuge by the inhabitants of Messina after the arrival of the Greeks.

The truth would probably lies in the middle and, at one point, Taormina became a Greek colony and remained so for a long time, surviving also to the Puniche wars. The Greek period came to an end with the Roman conquest of Sicily in 212 BC.

The Roman Age

To avoid the destruction as the nearby Syracuse, Tauromenium accepted the rules of Rome. Thanks to this “friendship”, Tauromenium became one of the first civitas libera et foederata of Sicily. This means that the city was considered as a precious ally for Rome and could enjoy a nominal independence from the Roman tributes (e.g. providing ships for wars) and other privileges. Among these, the Roman citizenship for its inhabitants.

Initially, the Roman domination brought innovation and peace in Tauromenion. In fact, many of the still surviving monuments were built or renovated during that age and the city flourished in peace until 135 BC. However, with the Servile War (134-132 BC), the city fell under the hands of the insurgent slaves, suffering great damages. From that moment onward, Tauromenion was part of all the wars undertook by Rome in that area of Sicily. Unfortunately, the city lost the charm and splendour of the Greek and early Roman age. However, it continued to have a political and economic relevance in Sicily. Indeed, it’s condition was widely remembered by the historians of that period, especially Strabo, Pliny and Ptolemy.

The Middle Ages

After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the Arab incursions started throughout Sicily. Like many other cities on the island, Tauromenion couldn’t escape Arab attention. In fact, the city was under siege for about 30 weeks before falling on Christmas Day 962, under Fatimid rule. The inhabitants were sold as slaves to the Fatimid Caliph al-Muizz, and Tauromenion was renamed Almoezia (al-Mu’izziyya). The fall of Tauromenion marked the end of Byzantine rule in Sicily. The independent Emirate of Sicily lasted until 1091. This brought cultural and agricultural innovation to the island. Regarding architecture, the Arabs adapted existing models to new uses.

The Norman Conquest and the Hohenstaufen

In 1060, Robert Guiscard invaded Sicily splitting the island between Normans and Arab population. One of the last acts to conquer the island, was the fell of Taormina (at that time still named Almoezia). This was completed by Roger I of Sicily, (younger son of Tancred), in 1078 after a battle famous as the “Siege of Taormina”. Almoezia became again Tauromenion and it was placed under the Catholic supervision of the cities of Troina and Messina.

With the Normans and, after, with the German heirs, the Hohenstaufen, Tauromenion experienced a long period of prosperity and cultural renaissance. The city was still involved in local wars, especially after supporting the Hohenstaufen against the Angevin. However, with the shift of power to the Crown of Aragon in 1282, Tauromenion experienced also peace and political stability for more than three centuries. In the 17th century, Taormina gained also the status of city belonging to the Spanish Crown.

Modern Age

Under the Bourbon dynasty (1534 -1860), Taormina was part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. In 1675 the French besieged Taormina destroying part of its Medieval architecture. Nevertheless, this occupation didn’t last long. Indeed, Taormina was again under the Spanish rule in 1678. As a sign of loyalty toward the Spanish crown, Taormina was granted Isola Bella (at that time named Rock of St. Stefano) under its jurisdiction. Thanks to the Bourbon, Taormina became more accessible. In fact, a new road connecting the city to Messina and Catania was opened (until that moment, the only way to reach it was through the mountains).

Taormina, a paradise for elite tourists

A great contribution to modern Taormina was given by Florence Trevelyan (the cousin of Queen Victoria) who moved to Taormina in 1884. She bought the Rock of St. Stefano and transformed it into a beautiful garden today known as Isola Bella. Miss Trevelyan was responsible also of the construction of the actual Villa Comunale, at the time famous as “Hallington Siculo”. Taormina was no longer important from a strategic point of view in Modern Age. However, it aroused the interest of artists, writers and academic scholars becoming an important spot for elite tourism.

People like Friedrich Nietzsche, Gustav Klimt, Sigmund Freud and even the King Edward VII decided to spend sometimes in this beautiful city. For this reason, Taormina was known as an exclusive holiday location for elite tourists and
this still hasn’t changed today.

Bibliographical sources for the history of Taormina

If you are interested in a more detailed history of Taormina, you can read these sources:

•  Krueger, Hilmar C. (1969). “Conflict in the Mediterranean before the First Crusade: B. The Italian Cities and the Arabs before 1095”. In Baldwin, M. W. (ed.). A History of the Crusades, vol. I: The First Hundred Years. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press. pp. 40–53
• Giovanni di Giovanni,”Storia ecclesiastica di Taormina” , Volume unico, Palermo, Tipografia Barcellona, 1870
• J. B. Bury, A History of the Eastern Roman Empire From the Fall of Irene to the Accession of Basil I (A.D. 802-867), 2015
•  John Julius Norwich, Paul Duncan, Sicily. A Short History, from the Greeks to Cosa Nostra, 2015
•  Leonard C. Chiarelli, A History of Muslim Sicily, 2018

A local guide to Taormina. Essential things to know

When is the best time of the year to visit Taormina?

Sicily’s climate is generally good all year round. Ergo, Taormina is a good place to visit at any time of the year. However, you have to make a few considerations. If you go during summer, you can enjoy the sea in the nearby coast. Nevertheless, this means also that you will likely find much more crowd and higher prices. In pre-pandemic times, during summer, hordes of tourist were crowding the little streets of the city at any time of the day. Especially when cruise ships stopped near the coast. It might not be the same this summer, but when life will return normal, this is what you can expect.

During the rest of the year, Taormina is more quieter. It is generally visited by Sicilian residents as a day trip or by a few tourists going around off season. Taormina is particularly popular to visit during festivities like Christmas and Easter when Sicilians have days off from work and like to go to “passiari” (i.e. stroll around). If you visit Taormina off season, you can expect to find some shops closed (e.g. my favourite place where to have gelato closes during winter). However, most of the attractions remain open to the general public. During Christmas, you can find also the traditional presepi exhibited in local churches.

Is Taormina expensive?

Taormina is considered as an expensive place by Sicilians. This because, thanks to the great influx of tourists, most of the restaurants/hotels adopt higher prices compared to other places in the island. However, if you compare Taormina to other touristic places in Italy, e.g. Positano/Amalfi or even Milan prices won’t be so excessive. Ergo, I think you should put this in perspective.

How many days should I spent in Taormina?

Taormina is a small city. You can easily see everything you need in just one day. However, if you want to take it slowly or want to enjoy some day trips, two-three days will be enough.

How do I reach Taormina?

Taormina is located between Catania and Messina (the city is part of the Messina’s municipality). You can easily reach it from both cities by car, train or coach.

By Car

If you are travelling by car from Catania, the motorway A18 towards Messina is the fastest route. Just enter the motorway and exit at “Taormina”. Please be aware that the motorway has some tolls to pay. From Catania it will take about 50 minutes to reach Taormina.

If you are travelling by car from Messina, you have to take the motorway A18 towards Catania and exit at “Taormina”. Even in this case, there are tolls to pay. From Messina it will take about 50 minutes to reach Taormina.

Parking in Taormina

Please be aware that most of the Taormina streets are labelled as “ZTL” or “Zona a Traffico Limitato” which means limited traffic area. Ergo, you can’t enter or park in these streets unless you are a resident. Therefore, you should park your car in one of the official city parking.

There are many parking in the city, some of them are privately managed, but the official parking managed by the Taormina council are Parcheggio Lumbi, Parcheggio Porta Catania and Parcheggio Mazzarò. You can’t buy the ticket in advance but you have to pay on the spot.

Parking is crazy expensive in Taormina and you can easily spend € 50 for a one-day parking spot during the high season.

Tips for Parking in Taormina and save money

If you don’t want to spend a lot of money in parking but you want to enjoy Taormina for a day, you can use a little trick that most Sicilian do. Indeed, there are two things you can do and both of them involve going to Isola Bella instead of Taormina (use the appropriate exit after going out of the motorway). In fact, if you get to Isola Bella early enough in the morning, you can park for free in the street! Indeed, there is no ZTL in the area of Isola Bella and usually Sicilians get there early to avoid paying the parking.

From there you can reach Taormina with the cable car. This goes up and down every 15 minutes and the tickets cost € 3 (one way) and € 10 (day ticket). This would save you a lot of money during the high season!

If you don’t get in time for a free parking spot, (during summer it’s quite hard to find a free spot), you can use the Mazzarò parking. This is less expensive than the one in Taormina (about €23 for a day) and from there take the cable car.

If you don’t want to pay the cable car, you can walk up to Taormina, but I warn you. It’s quite a steep climb.

By Train

Unfortunately, there isn’t a train station in Taormina. The nearest one is in Giardini Naxos. You can take a direct train from Catania Centrale or Messina Centrale to Giardini/Taormina. From there, you can proceed by walking. This is a good 40 minutes walk for about 2,5 km. Otherwise, you can take the Interbus to Taormina which cost about £1,67 and will reach the city in 15 minutes. You can buy tickets in advance from Trenitalia.

By coach

If you are travelling from Catania, you should take the coaches Interbus or Etna Trasporti at the Catania bus station (Via Archimede). These are direct coaches and will take between 1.10 -1.55 hours depending on how many stops they do. The ticket is between 4-6 euro for a return trip depending on the season.

If you are travelling from Messina, you should take the coach Interbus to Taormina from Piazza della Repubblica. This will take between 1.00-1.20 hours depending on how many stops it does. The ticket is between 4-6 euro for a return trip depending on the season.

How do you get around Taormina?

Taormina is pretty easy to get around and you don’t need a car. Just a good pairs of shoes to walk!

An insider’s guide to Taormina- Must-see places

Below you can find a list of places you can’t miss to visit during your trip to Taormina!

The Ancient Theatre

The Ancient Theatre in Taormina dates back to the III century BC and it’s the second largest theatre of this type in Sicily, after the one in Syracuse. Despite it is still called as “Greek Theatre” by Sicilians, the architecture surviving today is fully Roman. Indeed, it seems that already under August the theatre was renovated and a second renovation happened during the late Roman Antiquity.

Differently from the theatre in Syracuse, the Ancient Theatre in Taormina was used for the venationes. Venatio in Latin means “hunting”. During the Roman age, it was a type of entertainment involving the hunting and killing of wild animals. This was usually performed in Roman amphitheatres equipped for the “special effects”. For this reason, the Ancient Theatre of Taormina was modified and the area of the orchestra was replaced with an arena connected by a subterranean corridor. This allowed the beasts to come out at the centre of the scene from the hypogeum (a subterranean chamber) where they were kept.

Today, the theatre is used mostly for concerts and shows and it is part of the archaeological area of Naxos and Taormina.

Information for your visit

• Address: The Ancient Theatre is located in Via del Teatro Greco, 198039 – Taormina (ME)
• Opening Times: Sun – Mon 9.00 – 16.45 (last entrance at 16.00). The Theatre is currently closed due to the pandemic of Covid-19
• Tickets: € 10 – € 5 reduced for EU citizen aged 18-25. The entrance is free the first Sunday of each month.

Tips from a Sicilian

If you want to get spectacular pictures of the Mount Etna in eruption, the Ancient Theatre is the place to go! In fact, the visual is perfect and if you go at night (for one of the shows), you can have the occasion to capture the eruption from a very different perspective. In fact, Mount Etna gives the impression of being very close to Taormina from that point of view.

Corvaja Palace

One of the first attractions you will find arriving from the Messina Gate is Palazzo Corvaja. This is named after one of the most powerful and oldest families of Taormina who hold it for more than four centuries (XVI- XX centuries).

Palazzo Corvaja dates back to the X century. It is one of the few remaining architectural examples of Arab architecture in Taormina. Indeed, the palace incorporates an early Arab fortress built over a former Roman structure. Of this fortress you can still see the lower tower and the inner courtyard. The building was expanded already in the 13th century. During this period, the first floor and the ornamental balcony were added. This feature panels carved from the Syracuse stone and representing scenes from the creation.

The right wing was added during the XV century to host the Sicilian Parliament. The palace currently features a mix of architectural styles (Arab, Norman, Gothic). Unfortunately, it was held in a terrible state until its most recent renovation in 1945. Now, in addition of being the Tourist Office of Taormina, it’s used also for exhibitions and events.

The entrance is free.

Piazza IX Aprile

Piazza IX Aprile is the most popular square of Taormina. From here, you can enjoy a breathtaking view on the Jonian Sea, admiring all the coast the city. Moreover, the square host some of important historical sights and famous bar.

Torre dell’Orologio

The clock tower is one of the best sights of Piazza IX Aprile. It is famous also as Porta di Mezzo (midway gate) because you can find it in the middle between the Catania and Messina gates. It was built around the XII century as part of the oldest defensive walls of the city.

During the French siege of 1676, it was destroyed and rebuilt in 1679. In 1966 a mosaic of Byzantine inspiration was added to remember the city’s past.

(Ex) Church of St. Agustin

The Church of St. Augustin was built in honour of St. Sebastian during 1486. The style is late Sicilian Gothic. The church now hosts a library with more than 22.000 volumes. Part of the church is used also as a space for exhibitions.

Church of St. Giuseppe

The Church of St. Giuseppe is famous for its intricate Baroque style. Despite the external facade is pretty simple, the internal space is a masterpiece of Baroque style with beautiful frescoes and spectacular stucco works.

Villa Comunale

If you want to escape the crowd populating the streets of Taormina, the Villa Comunale is the place to be. This beautiful garden is, indeed, a little oasis of peace if you need to relax and enjoy a bit of shade from the warm Sicilian sun. The construction of this Taormina gem is due to a British noblewoman, miss Florence Trevelyan who was cousin of Queen Victoria.

Accused of having a relationship with the future king Edward VII, she was exiled from the royal court. In 1884 she decided to leave the UK and move to Sicily, particularly to Taormina. Here, she married the mayor of the city Salvatore Cacciola and she gave a major contribution to the community.

Hallington Siculo

As a passionate for gardening and botanic, she decided to buy some land on the slope of the city. This was used to built a residence and a garden that she called “Hallington Siculo” to remember her home in the UK. The garden, that now is owned by the Taormina Council, has one of the best views of the city and features peculiar constructions still known as the “Victorian follies”. Moreover, the garden hosts several rare plants and flowers.

The entrance is FREE.

Piazza Duomo

Piazza duomo in Taormina is home of its beautiful medieval cathedral and its peculiar Baroque fountain, famous as the “4 fountains” for its peculiar shape and small side fountains.

Taormina Cathedral

Taormina Cathedral resembles more a fortress than a church. Built around 1400 over a former thirteenth century church, the building has undergone several renovation during the centuries.

The external facade still maintain the Sicilian Romanesque-Gothic architecture characterised by different rose windows and battlements all over its perimeter.

Portals

The features I love most of this church are its intricate portals, one different from the other. There are three main portals. The portal in the main facade was renovated in 1636. However, it still keep it original medieval frame in white marble that dates back to 1400. This, features 11 biblical figures carved into the marble. The west portal dates back to the fifteenth century. This is rimmed with lava stone from the Etna and features a frame in white marble carved with natural motifs. The east portal dates back to the middle of 1500. It is simpler compared to the other two but still representative of the Sicilian Gothic style.

Naumachie

Rediscovered only in 1943, the Naumachie in Taormina is a long Roman wall measuring around 122 meters in length and 5 meters in height. This wall is the oldest structure built in Taormina after the Ancient Theatre. It was built close to the Taormina’s Gymnasium and scholars are still debating about its use.

In fact, the naumachia during the Roman Age were a fictitious naval battle organised to entertain the public. The naumachia were organised in structures that could host water or be located near a water basin.

It’s unclear if the purpose of Taormina’s Naumachie was that of entertain people. In fact, scholars advanced the hypothesis that it was used, instead, as water supply for the city and the Gymnasium.

An insider’s guide to Taormina – Underrated attractions

If you completed the tour of the main attractions in Taormina but you want to explore more, consider the additional sights below.

Badia Vecchia

Badia Vecchia (Old Abbey) it’s a fourteenth-century tower that used to be part of the defensive walls of Taormina connecting to the Saracen castle. The name “abbey” is due to the theory that the tower was once inhabited by Mother Abbess Euphemia. She was a regent of the Kingdom of Sicily from 1355 until 1357 in the name of her younger brother Frederic III, The Simple.

Badia Vecchia, is not easy to find because it’s well hidden among Taormina’s higher alleys. However, once you find it, you will admire its magnificent architecture that mixes Gothic and Norman styles with precious Arabic details.

Palazzo dei Duchi di St. Stefano

The Dukes of St. Stefano Palace dates back to the same age of Badia Vecchia. Indeed, it seems that shared with the “Abbey” the same defensive purposes. However, the palace became famous for being the residence of the Spanish noble family of De Despuches. They hold the property for centuries until one of the youngest heirs sold it to the Taormina council in 1964.

From that moment onward, the residence is used for art exhibitions during summer and permanently hosts the Mazzullo Foundation.

Hidden Mosaics in Taormina

If you have some spare time, you can go and search the surviving mosaics of Taormina.

The mosaic of Salita Santippo

The first one is called Mosaic of Salita Santippo and it dates back to the II century AD. It is a pavement pertinent to the peristyle of a private house featuring geometrical patterns and natural motifs. I have to warn you that it’s in very bad conditions.

Indeed, due to the lack of money, the care of the mosaic is nonexistent and you can’t actually see the mosaic because it’s covered in moss and grass. Well done Comune di Taormina!

The Hellenistic Mosaic

The second mosaic you can find is that called “Hellenistic Mosaic”. This dates back to the II century BC and it’s slightly in better conditions than the previous one. It was originally made with coloured pebbles (yellow, red, white, grey and black). However, due to the lack of maintenance, you can see only the black and white tesserae.

The mosaic features four side dolphins and a central six petaled flower inside a diamond shape. This used to be part of the courtyard of a private house.

Corso Umberto

Corso Umberto is the main street of Taormina enclosed between the Messina and Catania Gates. It’s famous for its luxury shops and for the possibility to find some exclusive traditional souvenirs. If you want to find something special, it’s here that you have to search for it!

Saracen Castle

If you are up for an adventure and are brave enough to climb the steep Tauro mountain, you can reach the ruins of the Saracen Castle. Unfortunately, you can’t visit the castle but you can walk up to its imposing walls. If you have a drone, you can have also a better view!

An earlier version of the fortification was likely existent already during the Roman Age. Indeed, scholars think that the castle was built over the former acropolis of Taormina. The current castle architecture is the one modified during the Arab conquest.

Church of Madonna della Rocca

On the same way to the Saracen Castle, you can follow the path to the Church of Madonna della Rocca. Don’t be fooled by the Google suggestion that is a 15 minutes walk from the Taormina city centre. That’s not true. The climb is slightly less steep that the one to the castle (even if the initial path is the same) but it will take a good 25-30 minutes to reach it.

The church is located in one of the highest point of the city and even if the climb itself is not pleasant, the view is certainly worthy. Madonna della Rocca is entirely carved into the rock (even if you can’t guess this from the external facade). It dates back to 1640 and since then remained pretty much the same.

I wouldn’t go up the hill during the day in summer. The sun is very strong in Sicily and it may become a challenging walk. A better time to visit is late afternoon.

Explore the Alleys

One of my favourite activities in Taormina is exploring its side alleys. You can find these on the left or right of Corso Umberto. Usually connected to the main road throughout small staircases. These little alleys are very surprising as you can find things that you don’t expect. This includes mosaics, medieval gates, beautiful palaces, cute restaurants, hidden churches etc.

One of my favourite alleys is Vico Venezia. Here you can find a little medieval gate surrounded by very photogenic orange trees. Furthermore, walking along the way, you can find some elegant palaces with lovely pink facades.

Best places to stay in Taormina

There are many hotels in Taormina. It is understood that a great part of those with a magnificent view are also the most expensive ones. However, because these are not within everyone’s reach, I divided them into three categories.

Luxury Hotels in Taormina

Taormina is famous for its luxury hotels. Places where exceptional service is complimentary with the most breathtaking view. Luxury stays in Taormina are not for everyone pocket but, if you are lucky enough to be able to face the cost, here are some of the most exclusive 5 stars hotels in Taormina.

Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo is among the top choices in Taormina, with its exclusive terrace and timeless atmosphere. Belmond Villa Sant’ Andrea is closer to the beach and offers spectacular views and everything you can expect from Sicily. San Domenico Palace is a Four Seasons Hotel located in Taormina city centre. This former fourteenth-century monastery combines perfectly Sicilian historical tradition and all the luxurious style provided by the Four Seasons chain. The hotel has undergone a complete renovation and looking more stunning than ever in the HBO series, The White Lotus. This year the hotel will close for the season on 28th November 2022 and will reopen on 14th March 2023.

Lastly, The Ashbee Hotel. You can find it in the magnificent setting of Villa San Giorgio. This historical palace was built by Charles Robert Ashbee on commission by Colonel Shaw-Hellier, a British veteran who moved to Sicily. In this construction, Ashbee wanted to incorporate the elegance of the British architectural style with the warm tones of the Mediterranean tradition and Sicilian history. The result is a very unique place to stay.

The price range for these hotels go from £570 for a standard double room in high season to £5,200 for a presidential suite for one night.

Boutique Hotels in Taormina

Boutique Hotels are generally my favourites because they combine style and moderate luxury with a more budget friendly stay. Taormina has many boutique hotels and usually they get booked pretty fast during the high season. Among the top places, you can stay at Taodomus Small Boutique Hotel, Hotel Villa Carlotta and Hotel Villa Belvedere. Price range from £310 to £500 for a double room for one night. Be aware that some of these hotels require a minimum stay of three nights.

If you are visiting multiple locations in Sicily and want a place in a good location Donna Carmela Resort is a reasonable option. It’s quite close to Taormina and at a driving distance from Mount Etna too. Here you can read about our experience at Donna Carmela.

Budget Hotels in Taormina

Budget hotels in Taormina are in great demand during the high season. If you want to stay in one of those places, you should think to book well in advance. Among the best budget stays in Taormina you can find the Hotel Continental, Medousa Bistrot & Suites and La Malandrina Apartments & Suites. Prices range from £ 150 to £400 for a double room for one night.

Best places to eat in Taormina

While wandering around Taormina, you will notice a great abundance of restaurants and on-the-go places. After all, Sicilian food is one of the best in Italy and you can taste some wonderful traditional dishes in Taormina. However, all that glitters is not gold and most of the times tourists have to face inflated prices for what Sicilians consider as average food.

Tips to remember when eating out in Taormina

For this reason, when it comes to visit places like Taormina, I always follow three rules and I invite you to follow them as well.

• Go Small. Big restaurants trying to capture the attention of tourists with their terraces on the coast are not always the best. Usually, the freshest and most delicious food is served by small places (these usually go under the name of bottega, osteria or trattoria). These places are generally managed by families who make feel their clients very special.
• Try to avoid the “fixed price” menu places. If you see a restaurant with an inviting sign stating that you can have a full lunch for only €15 in Taormina, there is something smelly. Especially if the offer a fish menu. These places are generally famous for using frozen food, of which quality is not guaranteed. This is such a shame considering how good is Sicilian food! Ergo, avoid them.
• If you have little time, use the traditional Sicilian take away. Italians are famous for spending hours sit at their tables during lunch. If you seat at a restaurant, be prepared to stay seated for 2-3 hours. So if you have a little time you should opt for a take away. With “take away” I don’t mean you have to go to the first Mc Donal’s you see. In fact, you can use little places called “rosticceria“. These are a kind of hybrid between street food stalls and bakeries selling everything from pizza, tavola calda (small savory pastries), pasta dishes, second dishes, sides and even desserts. The food is always incredibly fresh, the quality is excellent and the price very cheap. Some of these places have also tables and chairs where to consume your food. They are the perfect places when you don’t have much time.

Where to eat in Taormina

I have to confess that I am not a big fan of the restaurants in Taormina. This because I found that most of them are just tourist traps and, as a Sicilian, I would never pay for €20 for a pasta with tomato sauce that I would cook better at home. However, it’s also true that not all the restaurants inflate their prices for average dishes and if you know where to look at, you can find some very nice (and honest) places where to eat.

For example a very nice place where to taste traditional fresh cheese and meat boards is La bottega del Formaggio. For a great pizza go to Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro. The same owners have also a restaurant called Osteria Villa Zuccaro but I haven’t been there yet. One of my favourite places for a lunch/dinner on the go is l’Arco about Pizza. This is located after Piazza Duomo. Here you can find everything from fresh pasta dishes to arancini, pizza and traditional tavola calda (filled savoury pastries). Moreover, it’s very cheap! I warmly recommend you to try the pistachio arancini that are delicious!

For a fresh dessert, my favourite place is Gelato Mania! This place is just after Porta Messina and it’s often crowded because it’s small. I always take the same gelato flavour that is pistachio, hazelnut and Ferrero Rocher. You won’t regret it! The only bad thing of this place is that it’s open only during summer.

Fancy a granita? Plan a stop at the famous Bam Bar

As said before, there are a lot of touristy places in Taormina. Nevertheless, Bam Bar is famous for a reason. Indeed, in addition to be one of the most photogenic places in Taormina, it serves also delicious granita! We often stop there for a tasty breakfast when in town and the chocolate granita never disappoint!

Be aware this place is often very crowded during summer and it’s actually challenging to find a space. Moreover, it looks like it’s the mandatory stop for numerous VIPs. Indeed, the owner regularly picture himself with actors, singers and various celebrities. So, if you know someone famous that is in Taormina, he’s likely having a granita at Bam Bar.

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to book a table in advance. So you have just to pass there and try your luck.

Address: Via di Giovanni, 45, 98039 Taormina ME, Italy

Taormina one day itinerary with map

Below, you can find an example for a one-day itinerary of Taormina. This follows the following points:

• A – Start point from Porta Messina
• B – Visit to Palazzo Corvaja (10-15 mins)
• C – Visit to Teatro Antico (1-2 hours)
• D – Relax at the Villa Comunale Gardens (30 mins)
• E – See the Naumachie (5-10 mins)
• F – Visit Piazza IX Aprile and its monuments (30 mins – 1 hour depending how many pictures you take)
• G – Visit to Piazza Duomo (15 – 20 mins)
• H – Visit to Palazzo dei Duchi di St. Stefano (max 20 mins without exhibition entrance)

This itinerary will cover all the best things to see in Taormina. Moreover, you can plan a lunch break between point C and D to divide the day into two parts. Of course, you can add more spots and take inspiration from the other sights in Taormina I’ve listed before!

Best day trips from Taormina that are not Catania or Messina

It’s very likely that if you are visiting Sicily, you will fly over Catania and possibly include a trip to Messina in your itinerary. For this reason, I decided to exclude these cities as a day trip from Taormina. Below, you will find some places that are very convenient to reach from Taormina and are perfect as a day trip.

Isolabella

Isolabella is a small little island very close to Taormina. It’s connected to the mainland by a thin strip of land and it’s the best place to enjoy a day out at the beach from the city. My typical day out in Taormina usually includes a half day spent at the beach in Isola Bella and the afternoon spent in Taormina. As I previously said, Isola Bella was bought by Miss Trevelyan and transformed into a beautiful botanical garden that you can still visit. The later constructions built into the rock were added by the Bosurgi family. Now, Isolabella it’s part of the Archaeological Park of Naxos-Taormina.

Things to do in Isola Bella

Apart from enjoying a day out at the beach, there are other things to do in Isola Bella. For example, you can follow the little strip of land up to the island and visit the Museum and Botanical Garden. From the island you can enjoy a very different view of the coast and admire rare plants and peculiar construction build into the rock. Tickets cost € 4.00 and you can book them online here.

Moreover, if you want a little more adventure, you can jump on one of the little red boats on the shore and go to an excursion of the coast. These will usually tour the coast of Naxos and will bring tourist to the famous Grotta Azzurra. Excursions usually cost between €10-20 per person.

Lastly, if you are an expert swimmer with a PADI certification, you can also go to scuba diving. The main centre in Taormina and Isolabella is the Nike Diving Centre. Among the top things to see underwater near Isolabella there are the Roman Columns of Cape Taormina. These are at about 24 mt under the sea, lost from a Roman ship that sunk more than 2.000 years ago.

Tips for visiting Isolabella

Isolabella is particularly coveted during summer. Ergo, if you want to spend a half day at the beach, or even a whole day without annoyance read below!

The beach in Isola Bella is not so big and during summer it gets full of people soon. Moreover, (I don’t know why) it looks like the very thin layer of land connecting to the island is the most coveted spot where to put a towel. Therefore, if you want to act like a typical tourist and want to stay on that spot at any cost, go super early. Most of the people tend to arrive after 10.30 and those spots are the firsts to be gone. However, be aware that when the beach become full and there’s no place where to walk (because the space on that thin layer is very small), people start walking over other people towels and stuff to enter the sea or go to the island. Ergo, don’t complain if a 10-years old broke your sunglasses.

The second thing you can do is staying on the side of the mainland. Here you should not have the overcrowding problem and enjoy a little bit of more relax. Moreover, if you want even more space, you can rent a sunbed in one of the lidi (bathhouses) on the beach. These are quite expensive but worthy if you want a little peace from the crowd.

How to get to Isola Bella from Taormina

There are three ways to reach Isola Bella from Taormina. By car via the SP10 (10 minutes). However, I don’t recommend you this because it’s very hard to find a free parking space and the Parking Mazzarò is more expensive than the other options. You can reach Isola Bella also with the cable car. Tickets cost between €3-10 and the cable car is every 15 minutes. Lastly, you can go on foot. There is a staircase connecting Taormina to Isola Bella. However, be aware that despite the downhill is nice, the return is quite steep.

Castelmola

Castelmola is a village located above Taormina. It was listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy and it’s one of the places I love most when I am in that area of Sicily. The name Castelmola means “Castle over a mola“. Mola (in dialect) is the big rock where the castle was built during the Middle Ages.

Actually, the origins of the village dates back to the Greek age and its history is connected with that of Taormina. The old name of the village was Mylai.

What to visit in Castelmola

Castelmola is one of those places where is nice just to walk around and explore without nothing in mind. However, if you want to check out some spots, you can’t miss a visit to the ruins of the Mola castle, the church of St. Nicola di Bari and the view from Piazza Sant’ Antonio square.

If you go during the Christmas period, you will likely find some decorations all around the city and you can’t miss a hot chocolate with a view at the historic Antico Caffè S. Giorgio.

How to get to Castelmola from Taormina

You can reach Castelmola in several ways. If you go by car, it will take about 16 minutes from Taormina via the SP10 (SP means Provincial Street). You can’t enter in the village with the car. You must leave your car in one of the public parking just out the village. Please be aware that the road connecting the two cities is quite winding and during winter it gets very foggy.

If you don’t have a car, you can take the Interbus to Castelmola from Taormina bus station. It’s a 15 minutes ride and won’t cost you more than €5. If you are brave enough, you can also walk up to Castelmola. It’s a 47 minutes walk (2.6 km).

Giardini Naxos

Giardini Naxos was the first Greek colony established in Sicily (at that time it was called just Naxos). Now it’s famous for its crystalline waters and romantic promenade. Among the top things to visit there is the Archaeological Park of Naxos, the Castle of Schisò and the Nike of Kalkis.

How to reach Giardini Naxos from Taormina

Giardini Naxos is at a very short drive from Taormina. Indeed, it’s at just 18 minutes car via the SS114. If you don’t want to drive, you can take the Interbus from Taormina bus station. The ticket is about €3.

Alcantara Gorge

The Alcantara river is one of the most famous in Sicily. It flows from the Mt. Nebrodi to the Jonian Sea. Despite the river has many touristic points, particularly interesting for trekking and outdoor activities, the most unique part is that famous as “Gole dell’ Alcantara” (Alcantara Gorge).

This is a natural canyon formed by 25 mt high basaltic rock walls. These walls have been eroded and shaped by the river for thousands of years assuming very peculiar prismatic shapes. It was estimated that these walls date back to eruptions happened about 8.000 years ago.

What to do at the Alcantara Gorge

The Alcantara Gorge attracts tourist from all over the world and it’s perfect for water trekking, body rafting, rafting or just chilling near the river. If you go just for walking through the river be aware that the water is freezing even during summer. Moreover, it’s better to wear waterproof shoes and protect your feet from the sharpest rocks. If you want to undertake more adventurous activities, like body rafting, you should go with an authorised tour company. For more itineraries check the park website here.

How to get to the Alcantara Gorge from Taormina

The Alcantara Gorge is at just 34 minutes by car from Taormina following the SS114 to SS185 (there will be probably tolls to pay). If you don’t have a car, you can take the Interbus to “Gole dell’ Alcantara” from the Taormina bus station. This bus is operated only during the summer season.

Want to visit more places in Sicily? What about Cefalù?

Taormina Bucket List

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