Last Updated on April 14, 2024 by
If, at the sound of the word Sicily, you are already imagining yourself swimming along the coast of Taormina or eating a chocolate granita surrounded by the splendour of the Catanese’s Baroque architecture, I feel you. As a native Sicilian, I often struggled to see Sicily exclusively as a summer destination. However, as an expatriate to the UK, I can relate to the tourist perspective. Indeed, after a long rainy winter in London, what’s more appealing than a warm, slow summer in Sicily? Having lived in the island for more than 20 years, I can proud myself of the insider knowledge granted only to local people. Hence, I decided to use it to the scope of this guide. In this blog, you will find an appealing East Sicily itinerary that will swing around the Ionian coast of the island.
Starting from the bustling streets of Catania, this itinerary will takes you around the crystalline beaches of Syracuse, the mystical views of Taormina and everything in between. Ready? Amuninni.*
*Sicilian word for saying “let’s go”.
Table of Contents
Why visiting Sicily all in one go is not a good idea
This might sound like an unpopular opinion. However, as a Sicilian, I don’t recommend to visit Sicily all in one go. Tourists are often mislead by the geographical definition of Sicily as an “island”. Indeed, the collective imaginary of island, per definition “a piece of land surrounded by water”, push people to think of Sicily as a small, easy-to-visit destination. This is, of course, not the case. Indeed, with an area covering around 25,711 km² , Sicily is almost big as Belgium. Therefore, when planning for a Sicilian escape, is better to consider in advance what area you would like to cover. Try to pack too much in one visit isn’t practical neither enjoyable.
What are the best itineraries to visit Sicily?
In order to visit the whole Sicilian island (at least the major places), you would need at least 3 weeks. The most popular itineraries are essentially 3. The East Sicily on the Jonian Coast. This covers the areas from Messina to Portopalo. The Sicilian West Coast on the Mediterranean (from Trapani to Pozzallo) and the North Tyrrhenian coast from Palermo to Milazzo. However, there are two additional, and equally, worthy itineraries that I would include in the list. These are the inland itineraries that cover essentially 2 main areas. In the south of Sicily the areas of Caltagirone, Enna and San Cataldo. In the north of Sicily the mountainous area of the Nebrodi from Bronte to Gangi.
To avoid any confusion, this blog will discuss only the East Sicily itinerary. However, I hope to write soon some guides about the remaining itineraries for a better understanding of all the touring options in Sicily.
Why visit the East Sicily
The East of Sicily is packed with history and marvels. I can list you a hundreds of reasons why this part of the island will steal your heart. Of course, among these, food would probably get a special mention. However, let me tell you that, in the eastern side of the Sicily, you will find the most diverse landscapes. These will go from the lunar terrains of the Mount Etna, the unbelievable clean waters of the Syracuse coast to the bustling streets of Catania. The East of Sicily is a mix of colours, traditions sound and tastes that can leave people disoriented at first. It will take you a couple of days to pace yourself to the “crazy driving but slow living” of this part of the island. But once you do, you will start loving it.
East Sicily itinerary. Things to know before your visit
Before planning your trip to Sicily, read below some essential information for your visit.
First thing first. To visit the eastern part of Sicily your preferred airport will be Catania. Indeed, Catania is located exactly in the middle between Messina and Syracuse. Better for you, at a convenient distance from all the places suggested in this itinerary, if you need to stay overnight just in one place. Don’t be tempted by grab the first flight offer for Palermo or the remote Comiso airport. These are not well connected to reach the eastern part of Sicily and you will loose precious time and money.
If you are departing from London, Easyjet and, in the summer, British Airways, will be the main companies connecting the City to Catania from both Gatwick and Heathrow.
Because Catania lies in the middle of this itinerary, whether you start your wanderlusting from the north side towards Taormina or the south side, towards Syracuse, it’s up to you and your travel preferences.
When is the best time to visit East Sicily?
If if tell you that Sicily is always sunny and warm, I would probably tell you a lie. It’s true, Sicily is much warmer than the rest of Italy and we have plenty of sunshine all year around. However, some periods are better than the other to visit. Indeed, due to global warming, climate and weather in Sicily are no longer as they used to be before I left. Sudden tropical storms, particularly from November to March are the new norm. These often flood entire cities that are not equipped for this type of weather. Moreover, devastating wildfires have become a summer recurrence particularly in the warmest months of July and August.
Temperatures always been warm during summer, but the lower eastern side of Sicily reached peaks of 48 degrees last summer. Therefore, if you are planning to visit during summer, consider that temperatures will range generally from 30 to 45 degrees (depending on the location). If you are planning to explore some cities, do this in the early morning or late evening.
To my opinion, the best periods to visit Sicily, particularly the Eastern side, are the middle seasons. Autumns and Springs are warm but not boiling (some people even swim!) with temperature ranging between 18-25 degrees. Because it’s not peak season, most places are cheaper and less crowded. In general, life is more enjoyable.
Since a couple of years, winters in Sicily are a bit unpredictable. You can find, like I did last December, 25 degrees and full sunshine or it can be terribly cold with non-stop rain. Therefore, I always refrain to suggest winter as a suitable period unless one can’t travel during the rest of the year.
Getting around East Sicily
Getting around Sicily is not the easiest thing. Public transport is almost non-existent and trains are slow and unreliable. East Sicily is not any different from the other parts of the island. Ergo, keep in mind that if you want to see as many places as possible, you will need a car.
From my last visit in December, I pleasantly discovered that tourists can now rent a car directly at the arrival hub of the Catania airport from main providers like Europcar, Sixt and Avis. This will save you a lot of hassle. Indeed, until last year, people had to search their rental car all around the airport area. Imagine how many people got scammed or lost.
Bus
Coaches connecting different cities around East Sicily (and also the rest of the island) are available every day. However, be aware the service is not always great. Moreover, if you really want to get around by bus, this will connect only main hubs. This means that from main cities to smaller villages you’ll have to continue your journey by taxi/foot/car.
One of the main bus companies operating all around Sicily is AST. This connects big hubs like Catania and Syracuse to smaller towns (e.g. Catania to Acitrezza). However, if you want to reach only main cities, a better connection is perhaps provided by the bus company SAIS. This usually connects only main cities (e.g. Catania- Palermo) and it’s a bit more reliable than AST for longer trips.
Train
Train traveling in Sicily is almost non-existent. Forget the quick Frecciarossa train taking you from Milan to Rome in a couple of hours. Sicily won’t see that even in a decade. Unfortunately, the “train question” is always been a sore subject for Sicilians. Indeed, this represent one of the biggest controversies people have when comparing the North and South of Italy. But, let’s not talk about politics.
Trains in Sicily they do exist. However, they are slow, super old and people are still unclear which part of the island they really connect. A worthy mention is probably the route Catania – Giardini Naxos which offers a vague viable connection to Taormina. Nevertheless, apart from this, I honestly won’t recommend to waste your time in getting around by train. Unless you want a real adventure.
Taxi
Private taxis are available all across the island but expect inflated prices. Particularly in the most touristy areas. Unfortunately, Uber, Bolt, or whatever company you might think to book a taxi to get around, doesn’t operate in Sicily. Sorry about this.
How to use this Itinerary to East Sicily
Sicily is not like any place you have visited before. Most people are convinced they can stay just in one place and tour the whole island. This is not only wrong, but gives people the impression of Sicily as a small island when the reality is that most places are quite far from each other. Lengthy distances and not perfectly connected destinations, (without talking about the congested cities), can make your holiday a nightmare if you don’t consider this a crucial point of your visit. Visitors can get confused because after arriving in Catania, they are unsure whether is better to go north or south first. However, the most important element to consider in this case, is actually the choice of the “base camps”. Places that will allow you to visit different locations without changing your overnight accommodation. Catania is a viable hub for most of the places in this itinerary but, of course, there are places much closer where is better to stay.
Touring East Sicily – Where should I start?
To successfully complete your East Sicily tour, you’ll probably need 3 or 4 base camps. The cities of Catania, Syracuse, Noto and Ragusa are perfect to base yourself because each one of them is close to all the places mentioned in this itinerary. I created the picture above to help you visualise what places are easy to reach from each single main location. Example, it’s not very convenient to base yourself in Catania and do a day trip to Marzamemi. It would take ages and you’ll loose precious time to visit other locations. Therefore, if you want to visit Marzamemi, base yourself in Noto. They are much closer to each other and you can visit also some other places like Avola etc.
Of course, some places have borderline distances so they might be easy to reach from more than one base camp (e.g. Modica is close both to Noto and Ragusa as well as Cavagrande is close both to Syracuse and Noto). So this above is just an easy example on how to organise your Sicilian adventure.
It doesn’t really matter where you start your itinerary. The most convenient place is probably Catania because it will be where you’ll land but, as long as ones choose wisely where to stay, everything should go smoothly. Therefore take inspiration from the places suggested below, search your closest base camp from the picture above and enjoy Sicily!
East Sicily itinerary. 15 places to visit
1. Catania
Wherever you decide to go in East Sicily, your itinerary will start probably in the sunny Catania. This is the second biggest city in Sicily after Palermo. Often named as the “Milan of the South”, Catania has everything one might need in terms of landscape. Indeed, the city encompasses a large selection of beaches, a very distinctive mountain landscape and a lively city scene.
I was born and grew up in Catania. For this reason, I know the city better than any other places in the world. Catania is one of those locations people love or hate. Indeed, it’s chaotic, dirty, loud and full of life. To navigate it’s myriad of bustling streets, your driving skills will definitely need an upgrade. Indisciplined drivers and “not official” road rules make even the most patient drivers under a certain stress. On the other hand, the food scene is so articulate to satisfy even the most difficult mouths. The city’s historical heritage has millenary echoes visible in Baroque churches, layers of magma and Norman castles hidden among grey architecture.
To fully immerse yourself into the Catania’s essence, you will certainly need a couple of days. For those in a rush, a day trip might provide a general overview but this is definitely not sufficient to embrace the city’s buzzing atmosphere.
What to see in Catania
Day 1
Catania has many unmissable historical sites and the unique Via Etnea, encompasses a large part of them. Spend your first day strolling the 2.8 km-long main street of the city. Here you can have a lazy morning walk around the Giardino Bellini. Pop around one of the numerous high-street shops along the way (e.g. La Rinascente) or discover the ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre in Piazza Stesicoro.
Refill yourself with one aperitivo rinforzato along the way (you can ask one in any of the bars populating Via Etnea and the surrounding areas) and descend the street towards the majestic Piazza Università. Here, immerse yourself into the best of Catanese’s Baroque architecture. This is mostly appreciated into the churches named Colleggiata and Badia di Sant’Agata, as well as into the famous Palazzo degli Elefanti in the main Piazza Duomo. End your tour with a visit to the Cathedral and its hidden treasures.
End the day with the best burgher in town at the famous FUD Bottega Sicula. Be there early and avoid Saturday night. They don’t accept reservations and queues can take even 45 mins.
Day 2
If you have a second day in Catania, it’s time to hit its most famous historical sites. Start the day at the Monastero dei Benedettini and get lost in its hundreds of corridors and beautiful cloisters. From there, proceed to the adjacent Church of San Nicolò l’Arena and discover its secret terrace with an unbeatable view over the city. Afterwards, there are two choices. Going towards the Greek Roman Theatre and then to the medieval Ursino Castle or walking the historical Via di Sangiuliano to visit the scenic Via Crociferi and the related Baroque churches. All these sites are very close (10/15 mins walk from each other). Therefore, you can pick up any point is suitable for your itinerary. Don’t skip a visit to the Roman Terme della Rotonda. They are not always open, but if they do, they are worth a visit!
Have a delicious lunch in one of the local taverna in the fish market A Piscaria and enjoy a traditional and quiet ora di pranzo.
If you want to explore a little more in the afternoon, pop a visit to the lovely Palazzo Biscari to admire its unique wave staircase. Or, if you are a classical music lover, visit the beautiful Teatro Massimo Bellini.
End the day with a fantastic pizza at Al Vicolo Pizza & Vino.
Fancy a different tour of Catania? Why don’t you explore the city through its beautiful rooftops? Discover more here.
Acitrezza, Aci Castello and Acireale
Fancy another day in Catania? Get to explore the outskirts towns of Acitrezza, Aci Castello and Acireale. All the three small towns are at less than 30 mins by car from Catania and belong to its municipality.
Aci Castello it’s the first of the three you’ll find in the way. It’s at about 15 mins from Catania and it’s famous for its majestic Norman Castle on the clifftop. At less than 3 minutes by car, the town of Acitrezza boasts the most famous sea promenade in Catania and the unique Riviera dei Ciclopi. Stop here for a nice Granita at Mythos or Eden bar.
Last stop on the way, the town of Acireale. This is located at less than 10 mins by car from Acitrezza and famous for its beautiful architecture and panoramic views on the East coast of Sicily. If you are visiting around February, don’t forget to visit Acireale for it’s famous Carnevale.
2. Calatabiano
If you head towards Taormina and want to do some local sightseeing, Calatabiano is certainly worth a stop. This is a very little village in the province of Catania but it’s known for its medieval architecture. Indeed, perched on a 220 metres hill, Calatabiano Castle guards the town for more than 2300 years. The original castle has Byzantine origins but the structure flourished during the Arab-Norman period.
To access the castle there are two ways: a winding road up in the hill or a very steep funicular. The entry ticket is €5 and it’s worth the fantastic panorama you can see. Just below the castle, on a lower hill the Church of SS. Crocifisso dates back to the 15th century and belonged to the castle’s parish.
A peculiarity of this village are its “Medieval nights” taking places usually in Augusts. During these days the town completely transform itself into the medieval borough of the past with masked parades, medieval stands and traditional medieval food. They take these celebrations so seriously that you can’t event pay with normal euros but need to exchange them at the “cambio” with medieval coins. These will be valid everywhere to buy food, souvenirs and, of course, renting your medieval clothes.
The last time I went to Calatabiano was a few years ago, but I was lucky enough to experience the Medieval nights and it was actually one of the best historical celebrations I ever took part! Photo above remembering me and my husband appropriately dressed for the event.
3. Taormina
If you are planning an East Sicily itinerary, Taormina will likely be on the top of your list. The city has recently received a lot of media attention after making its international debut in the HBO’s tv series The White Lotus. However, Taormina has always been a popular hot-spot in Sicily. Indeed, prices are a little higher than other places and everywhere you look feels out of a movie scene.
Taormina can be visited in one or two days. Unmissable sights are certainly the Ancient Theatre, the Villa Comunale and the beautiful Piazza IX Aprile. Don’t miss a granita stop at the famous Bam Bar.
If you want to discover more of Taormina, read my Insider guide!
Isolabella
If you have some additional days to spare, Isolabella is certainly wort a visit. This is located right down under Taormina and can be easily visited via the cablecar connecting the two places. Isolabella is best appreciated during summer as you can make use of the lovely beach and visit the little island hosting the Museum and Botanical Garden.
TIP: if visiting during summer, be sure to get a spot on the beach very early. Usually, this becomes completely full by 10.30 am
Castelmola
Another little town to visit while you are in the area is definitely Castelmola. This is located above Taormina, on the highest part of the peak. You will need a car to reach it because there is no cablecar connection in this case. Conversely to Isolabella, Castelmola is more appreciable during winter. Indeed, the little alleys usually host Christmas decorations and every corner making the town look magical.
Castelmola hosts one of the most incredible panoramic view of all the island and you can’t certainly miss the sunset over “the mola” (aka the medieval castle) and a traditional hot chocolate at the historic Antico Caffè S. Giorgio.
4. Savoca
Savoca is a little town in between Messina and Taormina. The town is still a little unknown to mass tourism but had a burst of popularity due to its appearance into The Godfather. Indeed, the iconic Bar Vitelli, featured in the movie, is still functioning. The lovely town, perched on the top of a hill was once a fortified medieval citadel. Unfortunately, only the City Gate is surviving since the Middle Ages but the history of this town certainly make it worth a little visit.
5. Mount Etna
When I say to people that I was born under a volcano they hardly believe me. However, Mount Etna is currently the most active as well the tallest volcano in Europe. During my whole life, I saw a muntagna (yes we call it like that) quietly fuming on endless spring days, scenically exploding in all its glory and shaking the whole city under her powerful rumbles. It’s probably the most terrifying yet exciting show to witness while you are in Sicily, and believe me if I say that your East Sicily itinerary can’t be really complete without a trip to Mount Etna.
Despite being always very active, Mount Etna is a relatively easy and safe to explore volcano. Indeed, it is constantly monitored by volcanologists and, in case of too dangerous activity, it’s promptly closed to tourists (and locals). Don’t be disappointed if your tour gets suddenly cut off due to the volcano activity. This happens often and it’s done for people safety. Better safe than sorry!!
If you want to visit Mount Etna there are several trails you can take but the main ones are the hiking to the Crateri Silvestri and, of course, the hiking to the top Central Crater(s). See them below!
Hiking the Crateri Silvestri
The hike to the Crateri Silvestri is relatively easy. Indeed, it can be done independently without a guide or particularly technical equipment. I’ve done this hike for the first time when I was about 6 years old! For Catanese people it’s like a sort of initiation rite hiking Mount Etna with parents/relatives when one is little. In my case, both me and my sister, we were lucky enough to have done this at young age with our dad (and a bunch of uncles and cousins).
The Crateri Silvestri are divided in Lower Craters and Upper Craters. The Lower Craters are ridiculously easy to hike (they have also a parking!). The view is breathtaking and, in a clear day, you can see the whole coast of Catania. Hiking the Upper Craters is a different story. These elevates up to 1,900 mt over the sea and can be tricky to hike because quite steep and made mostly of slippery volcanic sand and rocks. Not recommended to people with mobility issues. The hiking effort is certainly rewarded with spectacular views and incredible photo opportunities.
Hiking the Central Craters
Hiking the Mount Etna Central Craters (there are 4 main active craters) is no joke. Indeed, this requires some advanced hiking experience and acclimatisation to altitude. To note that you can’t absolutely do the hike independently. Indeed, the sudden changes in the status of the Volcano make this hike a little dangerous. For this reason, you will need an expert trained guide to reach the central craters. Hikes are generally organised in small groups.
To reach the central craters, you have first to take the cable car that will take you to 2,500 meters. This is the last spot you can use without guide. From there, you can either take a mountain bus/ 4×4 from 2,500 mt. to 2,900 mt. or hike the whole route up to 3,300 metres.
The guided excursion usually cost between 75 and 100 € per person.
6. Augusta
Augusta is a little town on the coast of Syracuse. It’s generally quite undervalued by tourism as not many knows this is actually the oldest Greek colonies in Sicily that used to be called Megara Hyblaea. The current name “Augusta” comes from its historical founder, Frederick II Holy Roman Emperor. If you plan to visit Augusta on your way to Syracuse, be sure not to miss the Castello Svevo and the iconic beach home of the Sbarcatore dei Turchi.
7. Syracuse
There is always a bit of misunderstanding when tourists get to visit Syracuse. Indeed, the city is quite big and might get you confused at first. However, what not many tourists know is that most of the “famous” attractions are not actually actually located on main-town Syracuse but on a small part of the city. A little island called Ortigia. Indeed, excluding the incredible Greek Theatre, the Ear of Dionysius and a few other sites all of what is “touristically interesting” can be found in Ortigia.
I’m not suggesting here to skip the mainland Syracuse. However, if you have a tight itinerary, is better to focus on Ortigia and add a few stops out of the island. Of course, if you have a few days to spend in Syracuse you can also add a few significant addictions like the Latomie del Paradiso or the Ninfeo Grotto. If you want to visit one of the most secluded beaches of the areas, head to to the Natural reserve of Plemmirio and search the Pirillina Bay.
Ortigia
Ortigia is one of my favourite places in Sicily. Indeed, I got engaged here and I even got married here! It’s quite a romantic place but it has also a valuable historical heritage. Ortigia is, indeed, one of the oldest parts of Syracuse. It was already inhabited since the XIV AD and boasts some well-preserved Greek and Medieval architecture in Sicily. The little island is no bigger than 1 sq. Km but to fully experience it’s essence, a day trip (in my opinion) is not enough. Two days is an ideal amount of time to hit all the attractions and also get a little lost in the maze of its little alleys.
While in Ortigia, make sure to not miss it’s incredible Cathedral. Indeed, despite now it’s a religious site, it used to be a massive Greek Temple (Temple of Athena) of which columns are still well visible on its facade. The Temple of Apollo, is another incredible Greek heritage site, which is still well preserved in the centre of the town. My favourite top sites are the Aretusa spring and its gardens. Indeed, the Gardens of Aretusa feature some monumental Ficus trees, really scenic to see and photograph, particularly at dusk. For a special adventure, don’t miss the a visit to the Hypogeum. A series of underground tunnels connecting one part to another of the island (the exit is indeed a surprise!).
8. Cavagrande Lakes
The Cavagrande Lakes are a beautiful Sicilian hidden gem. If you never heard about them, I don’t blame you. Not many tourist do. Indeed, they are quite hidden within the high canyons of the Natural Reserve of the Cassibile river and not the easiest place to reach. Particularly for tourists with a limited amount of time to get around the island. The Cavagrande lakes are located just about 12km from the town of Avola.
Call them lakes it’s a bit misleading. Indeed, the “lakes” are a sort of natural pools created by the river Cassibile. The whole area has been designated as Natural Reserve in 1990. This extends for about 10 Km along the route of the Cassibile river. The location of the reserve it’s itself a historical necropolis dating XIII AD of which remains are still surviving the wild environment.
The “cave” (as it’s known by Sicilians), used to have about 10 different access. However, due to the frequent landslides, only 3 of them are approved for touristic purposes. These routes are called “Scala Cruci”, Sentiero Carrubbella” and Scala di Mastra Donna”. Don’t attempt any other route because the area it’s very dangerous out of these approved ways.
The route of Scala Cruci is the only one I did to access the reserve. This is a very steep natural staircase going down the canyon for about 4,5 km. Here I have to warn you. This is one of the most challenging hikes I’ve done in Sicily. Indeed, the return way it’s a completely vertical climb on a rocky terrain. Getting down will take you about one hour but returning will take you 2-3 hours. Of course, don’t even think to attempt it if you have mobility issues.
What to see at the Cavagrande Lakes?
Once you reach the bottom of the canyon, you can take two different directions. On the right, you can go to the bigger main lakes. An easy route which is terribly popular during summer. On the left, you can go towards “the mermaid”. This is a series of smaller pools on the Cassibile river where you can do canyoning. I’ve seen both parts of the reserve and the “little upper lakes” are definitely the most exciting (and less touristy) route. But there’s a catch.
Exploring Cavagrande’s upper lakes
First, you need to be able to swim. The river flow can be strong and some of these pool are deep even 6 mt. So, being able to swim is ESSENTIAL. Second, there are a lot of waterfalls to climb if you want to get to the tail of the mermaid. If you don’t have any canyoning experience, please be very careful because you can slip and be severely injured. My sister once fell from one the waterfalls and broke her ankle there. Third, there are water snakes here. YES, you heard me right.
Some of the pools are a little marshy, so you could find different types of water fauna. Including snakes. I’m not sure whether these snakes are dangerous or not, but with our surprise there were a lot of them. Indeed, once you get to the last visitable pool, after the tallest waterfall (this is about 4/5 mt. waterfall to climb), there is a wide lake with a rock in the middle of it. Here, we found A LOT of snakes. Indeed, we swam there just a few minutes and we head back.
The Cavagrande lakes are a very popular place for Sicilian youngsters who like summer adventures. Me and my friends used to do a yearly summer trip to the lakes. I have to say that 9 out of 10 times we went to the little lakes to climb the waterfalls. That’s why I was so pumped at the idea of canyoning the Wadi Mujib in Jordan! However, if you are a tourist (particularly without canyoning experience), I would probably recommend you to go to the bigger lakes. They are a little more scenic and the route is definitely safer than the mermaid route.
Cavagrande opening update
In June 2014 a vast wildfire destroyed great part of the flora hosted by the Natural Reserve of Cavagrande. Following the devastating fire, the natural reserve has been officially closed to the public since then. However, people continue to go despite the “official” guidance still say the paths are closed to tourists. I’ve read a recent article, the Sicilian regional government is planning to reopen following a series of security interventions but no date has been released yet. Therefore if you decide to go, keep in mind the area is still partially/totally closed and your insurance might not cover you in case of any accident. All the photos posted on this blog, have been shot before 2014.
9. Avola
You probably already heard about Avola for its worldwide famous wine, but in Sicily, Avola it’s also famous for its almonds (and history too)! Indeed, Avola is one of the sunniest towns in Sicily and for its geographical position became one of the best places for the production of almonds. AND, of course, the wine. If you are visiting Avola, be sure not to miss the Ancient Tonnara. This is an historical location for Sicily’s fish economy. Indeed ti was built in 1633 and it’s one of the oldest structures of this type still surviving. Avola is also famous for its crystalline waters. So don’t forget to hit some of its famous beaches like Pantanello Beach or the Old Marina Beach.
10. Noto
Located at the foot of the Ibleian Mountains, Noto is now a worldwide famous destination. Indeed, what it was once a peaceful unspoiled location, it’s now considered one of the best cities in Sicily where to admire Baroque architecture. If you are planning an East Sicily itinerary, Noto it will be probably at the top of your list. And not without a reason.
What to see in Noto
With more than 35 religious buildings, Noto is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002. Indeed, representing one of the finest example of Sicilian Baroque style, it’s impossible not to appreciate its stunning architectural elements and significant historical heritage. Among the most important building to check off, don’t miss the imposing Noto Cathedral dating 1776, the Town Hall (Ducezio Palace) and the well preserved Villa Romana del Tellaro at just 6 km out of the city. If you want to explore a beautiful Noto hidden gem, head to the Nicolaci Palace. However, don’t stop just to his facade. Indeed, it has a surprising interior design that is really worth visiting.
Vendicari Natural Reserve
At about 13 km from Noto, the Vendicari Natural Reserve is one of the best places for a day trip. Not only still preserves some historically relevant attractions like the Roman Villa of Tellaro, the Byzantine catacombs or the ruins of the ancient city of Eloro, but it is also home of some of the most beautiful beaches in Sicily. Indeed, the Reserve boasts crystalline waters, beautiful natural landscapes and very clean beaches.
The most beautiful and popular beaches are Calamosche Beach, Vendicari Beach and Eloro Beach. My favourite is Calamosche Beach. It’s a little secluded, to reach it you have to walk about 15 mins into the Reserve and descend the bay cliffs till the beach. It’s best to go early in the morning because in peak season it tends to be very crowded. Moreover, there’s no shade in the walking path inside the reserve so it’s not pleasant to walk under 40 degrees for 15 mins!
11. Marzamemi
A personal favourite of mine is Marzamemi. This is a little fishing village in between the towns of Noto and Pachino. Marzamemi is always been super popular among Sicilians spending the summer holidays in the east coast. Nevertheless, it started booming on social media only during the last couple of years. Because Alessio’s parents have a house on the beach in a nearby village, I know the area quite well and I visited Marzamemi punctually every summer since 2009.
The village is very small, so you don’t need more than a half day trip. Moreover, keep in mind that if you visit during the peak season, (July-August), from late evening (6 pm), this place will be incredibly crowded. Indeed, finding a parking space will be a real challenge and forget to have dinner without prior reservation. For this reason, despite dusk light makes this place very charming, I always prefer to have stroll here in the morning or early afternoon. All the streets are very quiet and my favourite granita place in Via Letizia 7 has always a table available for a peaceful breakfast.
Things to do in Marzamemi
As said above, Marzamemi is a very little village that one can visit in just an afternoon or morning. The focus of the village is localised in the main square called Piazza Regina Margherita. Here you will see the above colourful restaurants and churches that became famous all over the net. Yes. It’s one of the most photogenic places I know in Sicily. The square has two main churches both named Church of St. Francesco di Paola. The only difference is that one is the “chiesa antica” meaning the oldest one. Just beside both churches, you will see a lot of tables and chairs. In the morning these are empty and not used. However, the atmosphere changes completely in the evening. Indeed, all the restaurants in the square open, people start to arrive, music is in the air and the whole place looks like out of a Mama Mia scene.
I know, this type of summer buzz is quite tempting and I’m not here to discourage you in get this experience. Just remember to arrive before 7.30 pm. It’s your only chance of getting a car space.
12. Portopalo di Capopassero
Portopalo di Capopassero called by Sicilians just Portopalo, is the southernmost commune in Sicily. It is one of those places blessed by almost-constant sunshine and mild temperatures which always makes me regret my life in the UK. Although Portopalo has some relevant historical attractions like the still surviving Spanish fortress. The main reason to visit this little corner of Sicily is its beaches. Crystalline waters and some of the cleanest beaches in the whole island, make this place a little paradise. Spend the day at the Punta delle Formiche beach or Carratois beach. If you want a little adventure go to Isola delle Correnti and try to reach the little island connecting to the mainland only by a tiny stripe of sand. Be careful to the tides. If the high tide comes, you’ll have to swim to get back.
13. Modica
Known as the “city of chocolate” Modica is one of the oldest cities in Sicily. Indeed, it’s inhabited since the Iron age and its mountainous lands have seen all the greatest conquerors of the Sicilian history marking their way to the island. The city is internationally famous for its production of chocolate, of which secret recipe pass from a generation to another since the 16th century.
However, be warned the chocolate you will taste in Modica is not the same you’ll find in common supermarkets. Indeed, it has a unique sandy taste made by its peculiar type of “cold preparation”. Modica’s chocolate cooking at low temperatures (under 45°) makes the sugar not fully dissolved but still well mixed with the raw cocoa. This means its taste is very dense, grainy and stronger than normal chocolate. I admit this is not for everyone’s taste but If you want to try a piece of history, Modica’s chocolate is definitely the food you should try! The best place to go is definitely Sabadi. This little shop near the Duomo is one of the most famous chocolateries not only in Italy, but in the world.
What to do in Modica beyond chocolate
If you are wondering whether Modica is worth to visit beyond its chocolate tradition, the reply is YES. Indeed, Modica is part of UNESCO Heritage Sites in Sicily for its historical value and stunning Baroque architecture. This is so famous the city has also a special “Baroque train” that takes tourists all around the city to discover all its marvellous architectural examples. Modica is divided into two main parts. Modica Alta (Upper Modica) is perched on the top of the Ibeli hill while Modica Bassa (Lower Modica) extends on the valley, surrounded by the nearby high hills.
One of the most imposing landmarks of the city, the St. George Cathedral stands up high on the top of the hill. To reach it, you’ll need to climb more than 300 steps. If you want to climb a little more higher, you can reach the remains of the Earl’s Castle (Castello dei Conti). To learn more about Sicilian history, visit some of Modica’s historical palaces like Palazzo Mercedari or Palazzo Busacca. End your day at the Chocolate Museum, possibly with a good taste of local chocolate.
14. Scicli
The town of Scicli, of which name is pronounced as “Shee-kly”, is often overshadowed by the famous neighbour cities of Noto, Ragusa and Modica. Nevertheless, Scicli is a little gem of Sicily which is worth visiting if you are touring the area. Full of character and not less opulent than other places in Val di Noto, Scicli is actually quite famous among Italians because it’s the main filming location of the TV series (based on the Camilleri’s books) Inspector Montalbano.
Built entirely within the rift of a valley, the city has some magnificent landmarks you can check off. Is particularly worth the hike, the imposing Church of St. Matthew (Chiesa di San Matteo) which dominates the town from the top of the hill along with the ruins of the Arab/Norman fortification of the city. Lastly, being a little town, most of its prominent Baroque architecture is located within its high street called Via Francesco Mormino Penna. Here you can visit the opulent Palazzo Spadaro or the beautifully decorated Church of St. John Evangelist.
15. Ragusa
When it comes to Ragusa, there is quite a misunderstanding among tourists. Indeed, the city is famous online for the main view you can see above. However, this is just the old part. Indeed, Ragusa is made of three different areas. Main town Ragusa, the old part called Ragusa Ibla and the seaside area called Marina di Ragusa. Therefore, when booking an accommodation for touring the area, pay attention to where is located because each part is quite far from the other! Despite both the main city and the seaside are interesting, the best, and most photogenic, area of Ragusa to visit is Ragusa Ibla.
Ragusa Ibla
Ragusa Ibla (or Lower Ragusa) is the oldest part of Ragusa. This area was already inhabited since the XIV century by the Siculi. Traces of their presence are still visible in the necropolis surviving around the city. The old part of Ragusa used to have a more Medieval aspect until 1693. Indeed, a powerful earthquake on 11th January 1693 completely destroyed the lower area. This was rebuilt with the current aspect becoming a jewel of Baroque architecture. One of the last remaining of medieval Ragusa, is the Portal of St. George built in the XII century and belonged to the Church of St. George now destroyed. Do not confuse this portal or the former church with the current Church of St. George which is the Cathedral of Ragusa located in Ragusa Ibla.
A peculiar attraction you can visit in Ragusa Ibla (on specific days) is the Circolo di Conversazione. An ancient literary cafe once known with the name Caffè dei cavalieri where the Ragusa’s aristocracy used to meet to discuss about literature and organise their private events. Of similar origins, the Iblei Gardens, of which name comes from the spectacular view over the Iblei Mountains, were built by a group o nobles in 1858. Today they offer a lovely and peaceful corner where to rest after a long walk around the little alleys of Ragusa Ibla.
Where to stay in East Sicily
Because both my parents and my husband’s ones still live in Sicily, we are lucky enough to not need any accommodation every time we go to the island to visit them. However, from time to time, we do some little escapes and try some local places. We are trying to do this more often to enjoy more what our birth place has to offer!
A gateaway to Taormina and Mount Etna
Last December we did a little escape and decided to stay at the Donna Carmela Resort & Lodge. I’ve heard good things about this hotel so I wanted to try it by myself. This place is located in a small town called Riposto and its location it’s perfect to visit both Taormina and Mount Etna.
I liked our stay in general but, as any place, also this one has pros and cons. Among the pros, I loved their breakfast. They literally bring you everything is on the menu and gives you also another carte for additional choices. The room was spacious and quiet and the garden is lovely to walk. I imagine that in summer it must be a lovely place for a dinner. Among the cons, I would say the place is a little in the middle of nowhere so, unless one has a car, it’s very difficult to reach. There are also limited facilites to be called “resort” and I found this a misleading use of the name (sorry professional deviation because of the job I do!).
Prices are also above the average for the category and I honestly would expect more in relation to the price paid. Rooms start at € 200 per night for a double room in high season and lodges start at € 800 per night for 2 people. We didn’t have the chance to try the gourmet restaurant La Cucina di Donna Carmela but the reviews say it’s one of the best in the area.
Stay in central Ortigia, Syracuse
As I said before, Ortigia is the place where me and Alessio got engaged and then married. It has a special places in our heart so we keep returning when coming to Sicily. Last time we decided to stay overnight and for our stay we opted for Cinquesuites Ortigia, a small luxury hotel in the heart of the Jewish quarter.
The hotel is very small as it has only 5 suites, each of them with his own charm. We wanted to have a special stay so we opted for the Suite n.1, which included a private jacuzzi on a small terrace. Cinquesuites is centrally located, so it’s very easy to get around Ortigia. Because we visited when still some pandemic restrictions were in place, we didn’t have the chance to get breakfast in the panoramic terrace (we had to order everything in the room). Nevertheless, we loved our stay. The only cons, was the in-room coffee. Indeed, there was a Nespresso machine but to use the capsules, you had to pay a separate price for each capsule! Not really what you expect when you pay a considerable price for your stay.
Prices at Cinquesuites starts at €170 per night, per double room in high season. Suite n.1 has an increased price because of the private jacuzzi and prices starts at €269 per night per double room.
Plan your trip to Sicily
Enjoy Sicily and if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!
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I love your guides about visiting east Sicily! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and inspiration.