All you need to know to visit Scala dei Turchi in 2024

Last Updated on April 18, 2024 by

Rising as white cloud from the crystalline waters of the Mediterranean Sea, the Scala dei Turchi is an idyllic destination in Sicily. For years Sicilians driving from any part of the island, loved to gather here to admire the white stone changing shades from sunrise to sunset. Then it came the media popularity. Because of its fame, the this beautiful hidden gem became overcrowded and often at the centre of vandalism and inappropriate regional management. If you are planning a trip to Sicily, this Scala dei Turchi guide will provide you with insightful knowledge, tips and updates on how to visit this 2024.

A step back in history. Why is called Scala dei Turchi?

Roughly translated into English as Stair of the Turks or Turkish Staircase, the name of this spectacular natural masterpiece has, in reality, nothing to do with the Turks. Indeed, since it has ever been recorded, Sicilians misleadingly called their Arab conquerors as “Turks” despite coming from North Africa.

As far as we know, early in the Middle Ages no Turks stepped foot in Sicily. At least not the ones coming from Türkiye. Indeed, still today, most Sicilians still confuse the Turkish pirates who did casual raids along the coast during the later Middle Ages with the Saracens. An Arab population who lived in and near what was designated by the Romans as Arabia Petraea and Arabia Deserta. This mix and match of identities probably happened later in the Middle Ages. Likely when Sicilians started calling as “Turk” anyone having a dark skin and with a middle eastern aspect.

Nevertheless, the story of the misleading name is not entirely Sicilians’ fault. In fact, during the Middle Ages, The Roman Catholic Church and European Christian contributed to the mismatch by using the term Saracen as a common marker to identify Muslim populations. This included Arabs, Turks and Iranians. The marker was so diffused that by the 12th century, Medieval Europeans used the term Saracen as a synonim of Muslim. This regardless of the actual people’s geographical provenience.

History of a name

Not many are aware, but Sicily was under the Arab control for more than two centuries. The first “Saracen” incursion in Sicily started in 652. Organised by the newly governor of Syria Muʿāwiya ibn Abī Sufyān. Incursions continued uninterruptedly for almost two centuries and most of them departed from North Africa. The “official” conquering of Sicily started in 827. This date signs the beginning of the Arab domination in the Mediterranean for the next two centuries. Agrigento, the closest city to the Scala dei Turchi, fell under the new rulers in 820. These changed the city’s name into Kirkant كِركَنت‎. Most of the Sicilian cities eventually fell under the new Arab rulers. The mārat Ṣiqilliyya (Sicilian Emirate) lasted uninterrupted for almost two centuries (827-1072).

But why and when Sicilians started calling their attackers as”Turks”? As said before, the generalisation of the term “Turk” in Sicily happened sometimes during the late Middle Ages. Indeed, soon after the Norman conquest of Sicily, the Ottoman Turks became continentally famous for their war strategies, conquests and raids across Africa and Europe. Continuous pirates raids happened also along the coast of Sicily. In fact, despite not being able to conquer the island, Ottoman Turks pirates became famous for bringing chaos and making people scared with their aspect. This contributed to the creation of a phrase, which Sicilians still say in their conversations. Indeed, when something is very chaotic or makes one feels very confused Sicilians say “Mi sento ‘pigghiata de’ Tucchi“. This means “I feel taken as taken by the Turks” because of the chaos and confusion felt.

La Scala dei Turchi

After this lovely background story, you may probably have guessed why the Scala dei Turchi has this name. The legend says the place got his name during the Middle Ages. When the Saracens arriving from North Africa landed into the coast and, to avoid being discovered by the local population, used to hide in the wavy rocks of the Scala dei Turchi. Indeed, the staircase was considered a perfect hiding spot.

Over time, people start to mix up the memories of the Saracen incursions on the coast with the chaotic and brief raids of the Turks into the Sicilian shores. This because Scala dei Turchi, due to its geological nature, continued to be a favourable place for pirates attaching the coast. Therefore, as far as it is remembered, Sicilians called this place Scala dei Turchi. This wasn’t particularly associated to the Turkish raids. Conversely, it regarded the Sicilian association of “Turk” as the stranger, the muslim, the ruler coming for the Sicilian treasures, regardless of the actual provenance or cultural identity.

Geology of the Scala dei Turchi

Scala dei Turchi’s geology is pretty unique in Sicily. Indeed, only another sister example famous as “Punta Bianca”, in the same Agrigento province, have similar characteristics. The staicase is formed of a stone called white marl. This is made of various sedimentary and carbonate minerals that, when hardened, become stones. Studies have shown that Scala dei Turchi’s marl is particularly formed of the tests of planktonic foraminifera, a form of marine plankton belonging to the Trubi Formation and back to the Lower Pliocene. The “staircase” shape that make this place so famous, is the expression of periodic environmental variations related to terrestrial orbital parameters.

In 2007 the municipality of Realmonte applied for the inclusion of the Scala dei Turchi in the UNESCO Heritage List. However, still today no decision has been made in relation to the matter.

Getting to Scala dei Turchi in Realmonte

Scala dei Turchi is located in Realmonte, a small town in the Agrigento province. Unfortunately, there is no public transportation that goes directly to the white cliffs. To reach this location, you will need a car or walk from one of the nearby villages. One of the main walks, is about 5 km from the village of Porto Empedocle. Unless you want explore the local beaches, there isn’t much to do in this area. Therefore, is better to be located in Agrigento or Sciacca. Getting to Scala dei Turchi from central Agrigento will take around 20 mins by car. Arriving from Sciacca takes a little longer, something like 48 mins to 1 hour. However, the town is very nice, colourful and an optimum base to explore the local area.

We stayed in Villaggio Mose’, a little town in the suburb of Agrigento. From here it takes about 17 mins to get to the cliffs. During this trip, we were with our family. Our main scope was visiting as many beaches as possible in the area. So we just stayed in a cheap accommodation and stayed at the beach all day.

Scala dei Turchi guide: 3 most important things to know before visiting

If you are planning to visit the Scala dei Turchi on your next Sicily visit, keep in mind the following information before your trip.

1. Parking at Scala dei Turchi

There is no free parking there. Unless you go at five in the morning, parking on the Strada Provinciale 68 (the one giving main access to the beach) is strictly forbidden. To find a parking space, you have to use one of the private parkings available along the way. One of the main parking spots is “Parcheggio della Scala” located at 6 mins walk from the beach.

2. Access to Scala dei Turchi

The access to the staircase may be closed at any time and without prior notice. Indeed, not many know the whole staircase is actually privately owned by a man called Ferdinando Sciabarrà. This person apparently, own the whole surrounding ground, including the marvellous white rock. Recently, this man has even proposed Elon Musk to buy the staircase after failing to keep people away from it. I honestly hope the Agrigento administration does something on the topic. Indeed, such incredible place should belong to public institutions not to the first millionaire who wants to buy it.

Access to the white staircase is granted from the main beach. Nevertheless, private owned “lidos” (i.e. beach clubs) control most of the main visible access. Legally speaking, they are not allowed to ask you money to reach the beach through the staircase crossing the beach club. Nevertheless, they play the tourist card. Indeed, most of visitors, unaware of the Italian law are caught off guard by these people. They often ask a fee or force tourist to buy food or drinks in order to pass. If any person asks you money, please reply that you are not using any of the club services. That you are just going to the beach, which is a public space and not privately owned.

3. Is Scala dei Turchi worth visiting for a beach day?

The straight answer from a Sicilian is NO. However, you hare visiting from a different country, is perfect understandable you’ll looking at this as a once in a lifetime experience. Nevertheless, if you are coming for the beach itself, this might not be the best place. Indeed, despite the white cliffs of Scala dei Turchi are a spectacular natural marvel, the beach itself is not one of the best you can find in Sicily. Particularly in the Agrigento coast.

In fact, since a couple of years the area has become a mass tourism spot. This means the beach in summer is often super crowded (even dirty at moments). There is limited space and many people find it often unpleasant and not worth the hassle. Moreover, the seabed near the cliffs is rocky and often full of slippery algae.

My personal insider tip for visiting Scala dei Turchi

If you want to get the best not only from Scala dei Turchi, but also from the Agrigento coast follow my tip! Visit Scala dei Turchi very early in the morning. Maybe for a quick swim. The best time is from sunrise to 8 am. Go for a filling breakfast in one of the nice beach clubs around the area. Then head to one of the amazing beaches you can find along the Agrigento coast. My personal favourites are the stunning Punta Bianca, the unusual Drasy Beach, the muddy Giallonardo Beach and the incredible (but tricky to reach) Bay of the Mermaids.

Taking pictures at Scala dei Turchi

Let’s face the truth, a large amount of people want to visit Scala dei Turchi to take pictures of its amazing white cliffs clashing with the blue sky. However, the reality is that many people will remain disappointed in the end. Indeed, when arriving, Scala dei Turchi will probably be so full that you will be already regretting being there at 7 am.

Scala dei Turchi can indeed be very photogenic. If your main purpose is that of taking pictures during the summer season, keep in mind the following tips.

If you want to have a chance of having decent pictures in the summer season, you have to come at sunrise. We arrived literally at 5 am and there were already at least other 10-15 people climbing the staircase. If you arrive later than 8 am, I’m sorry but finding a good photo spot will be very challenging. If you arrive after 10 am, finding a place at all will be impossible. It’s disappointing but it’s the reality of this place.

When we arrived at sunrise, people were already occupying their spot for the day. We needed to get a little around and find angles were the crowd was not visible to get good pictures. When we left at 6.45 am, half of the staircase was already full of people.

Another good option might be visit for the sunset but keep in mind the Guardia Costiera (sort of Italian sea Police) may close the access to prevent vandalism.

Visiting during Spring/Autumn might be another good option to avoid the crowd but, also here, keep in mind possible closures.

Planning an ethical visit to Scala dei Turchi

Almost every year, I read news about tourists or local people damaging Scala dei Turchi. From extreme acts, like spraying red paint on the cliff, to people who engrave their names on the rock or take pieces of it as souvenir. This is not only stupid but you can risk a huge fine, if not the prison, if caught damaging the cliffs.

In order to visit the Scala dei Turchi responsibly, there is an ethical code to follow and I invite you to read you more below.

Scala dei Turchi Guide to an ethical visit to the site.

Off limits area and general rules

Since 2019 some parts of the cliffs are no longer accessible to general public. If you look at the first picture above here (that I shot in 2018), that area in front of me with a little beach, is now off limits. This is for mainly two reasons. First, is the danger of the steep cliffs. You may fall or injure yourself because the cliff is steep and slippery. The second is because people used to take pieces of the cliffs from that area that is more secluded.

In this regards, it’s forbidden to take pieces of the soft rock anywhere around the area. You are damaging a natural beauty and, if discovered, you will end up with a huge fine. Moreover, climbing the rock vertically is strictly forbidden for security reasons.

To climb the stairs do not use shoes. Dirty shoes are damaging the whiteness of the cliffs. Moreover the Marl rock is very soft, so your soles can leave permanent marks on the rock. It’s true the cliff can be slippery if many people climb it wet from a swim on the sea. Nevertheless, the place is huge so there will be always a dry trail you can walk without slipping. This can be an additional reason to visit at early morning. Not many people swim and most of the rock is dry.

Engraving names and symbols on the rock has been a huge problem lately. Apparently a large number of visitors think is appropriate to write their stupid names on the rock. Should I explain to you why this is a awful and irresponsible thing to do? Don’t be ridiculous and remember that nobody knows who you are, so engraving your name there is basically nonsense.

Pollution and erosion

Don’t leave trace of your visit. With this I mean, don’t leave garbage, clothes or whatever thing you have with you. This pollutes the areas and is not respectful for nature and other visitors.

Lastly, the rock is gradually reducing its extension because of both natural and human erosion. Each human visit, contribute to damaging the rock. No matter how careful you are. The simple fact you are walking the soft rock creates an impact on it. The only way to reduce your impact is planning a very brief visit. As I said before, I don’t think is even worth staying there the whole day. The best thing to do is visiting briefly (barefoot) and then go elsewhere. If your really want to spend the whole day there, just use the little beach before the cliff.

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