Following the citrus scent. A complete guide to a day trip in Cefalù

Last Updated on July 28, 2023 by

It’s one of those roasting Sicilian days of August when I wake up Alessio and say “let’s go to Cefalù”! Deeply in my heart, I’m still regretting to have missed that second grade trip to that area of Sicily when I was at school. Ergo, this is my chance of redemption for being a Sicilian who didn’t explore much of Sicily when I was still living in the island. Despite being known for its beaches and iconic touristic port, Cefalù is one of those places in which history it’s still visible. Little alleys reminiscing of a medieval turbulent past are still walkable and enjoyed everyday by thousand of people. In this blog, you will discover the best things to do in Cefalù on a day trip.

Cefalù History

Born as Kefaloidion in the IV century BC, Cefalù was originally a Greek colony. His name was for a long time linked to its mountainous territory, particularly to the iconic Cefalù Rock that dominates the town’s landscape and it was the former site of the city. In 250 BC, Cefalù was conquered by the Romans who named it as Cephaloedium. The Roman age came to an end in AD 858, when the Arab, settled in Sicily, changed its name from Cephaloedium to Gafludi. Cefalù became officially part of the Emirate of Sicily and it was part of it for over two centuries.

With the arrival of the Normans in 1063, Cefalù became the city we know today. Indeed, in 1131 Roger II, king of Sicily, decided to move the settlement from the top of the rock to its current position by the sea. Most of the monuments of the city date back to this time. After the dead of Frederick II in 1250, the political situation in Sicily and Cefalù became unstable. Indeed, until 1451 the city was owned by different feudal families. Peace and stability returned under the Spanish rule and Cefalù flourished under a new light. After the Middle Ages, Cefalù followed to the same fate of Sicily. It was subject of a new intellectual interest during the XVIII century, when it became part of the Grand Tour and since then, it remained known as one of the most touristic points of the island.

Best things to do in Cefalù

I’m always the first who keep a bucket list of places to visit when I go to a new place. However, after years of traveling around the world I’m learning that checking off that attraction from a personal list is not always satisfactory as additional experiences that may come from that visit. For this reason, this time I’ve selected a list of experiences that I loved to do while in Cefalù. I hope you can make these yours as well. Nevertheless, if you need a bucket list to follow to organise your trip, you can find this at the end of the blog.

Take a dip at the Old Arbour

Accessible through the only surviving gate of the XVI century famous as Porta Pescara, the old arbour is one of those places that makes photographers’ heart beating faster. Built at the foot of the Rocca di Cefalù, this picturesque arbour unleashes romance and fantasy by making you dream of adventures far in the sea. Here you can still see locals taking their colourful boats out for a fishing day and old ladies chit-chatting of the latest gossip they heard at the local market. If you are lucky enough to secure your spot on the tiny arbour beach, don’t miss the occasion of dipping in front of this unique postcard-perfect place.

Hear the legend of the Lavatoio Medievale

“Hac cephalinus abit quocunque salubror amne purior argento frigidiorque nive“. Here flows Cefalino, healthier than any other river, purer than silver, colder than snow.

With this Latin quote at the top of its staircase, the Lavatoio Medievale (medieval washing house) welcome its visitors and displays its uniqueness among the attractions of Cefalù. The original medieval washing house was demolished in 1514. This used to be much closer to the sea and the city walls. Nevertheless, part of the current building still preserve the engineering work done to let the river flowing through 22 different basins used for washing clothes.

The legend says that the river Cefalino was created by the never-ending tears of a nymph who accidentally caused the death of her lover.

Tip: for better photography opportunities, go very early in the morning. This place is usually very crowded during summer.

Get lost in the little cobbled streets

Whether you go in summer or not, take a little time to get lost in the myriad of little alleys of Cefalù. Cobbled streets, fascinating courtyards and small local shops will grant you an amazing experience you won’t regret.

Taste a yummy gelato by the Duomo

Tired of exploring non-stop under the sun, we decided to take a little alfresco break. What’s better than a yummy gelato then? One of the best place in town is Duomo Gelatieri dal 1952 (which, as the name says, makes gelato since 1952). This place is located just in front the Cathedral to grant you not only a tasteful break but also a beautiful view.

Tip: During summer the queue to order a gelato takeaway are incredibly long and if you use the takeaway you cannot use the tables on the square. For just a few euro more, you can be served (faster) at one of the tables end enjoy with calm your gelato. Relax! You are in Sicily after all!

Be amazed by art

Whether you are religious or not, there is no reason to deprive yourself of a significant cultural experience and admire the architectural beauty of the Duomo. Indeed, this church is one of the oldest buildings in Cefalù, dating back to 1131. Commissioned by the King Roger II, the cathedral is one of the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily. Indeed, the mosaics cover a surface of over 600 m² and Roger II hired some of the most skilled byzantine artists for their realisation.

If you want to have additional cultural experiences, you can visit also the Mandralisca Museum. This preserves archaeological and art pieces belonged to the Mandralisca museum as well as the famous “Portrait of Unknown Man” by Antonello da Messina (who is a famous Sicilian artist). Tickets cost € 6,00.

Enjoy a sunset swim at Spiaggia Libera

After a day wandering around the amazing streets of Cefalù we decided to call for the beach. Indeed, one of our favourite moment for swimming is always the sunset time. In Cefalù this was particularly good because during daytime the beaches are quite crowded, while at sunset time people start going home. It’s a perfect moment because the water is warmer, the light is beautiful and you can relax.

The Spiaggia Libera (free beach) is located on the Lungomare Giardina. It’s free to enter but be careful with your belongings, don’t leave them unattended for too long (we left them just the time of a swim).

Going on a Sicily road trip? Why not visit Taormina? Read my complete guide here!

Cefalù day trip guide. Essential things to know

When is the best time of the year to visit Cefalù?

Sicily’s climate is generally good all year round. Ergo, Cefalù is always a good choice as a day trip, especially if you are staying in Palermo. Cefalù is a good option especially for summer because of its proximity to the sea. However, beware that during summer the city is overcrowded and find a place on the beach is challenging! See the pictures to know what I mean. A good period for visiting is probably May-June. If you are lucky and temperatures goes up more than 25°, you can probably swim in the sea without the absurd summer crowd. Moreover, prices for accommodations and restaurants are likely more affordable.

Is Cefalù expensive?

Depends where you go. There are certainly tourist traps (especially among restaurants with inflated tourist prices). However, Cefalù is average in terms of prices compared to other places in Sicily (e.g. Taormina is much more expensive).

How many days should I spent in Cefalù?

Even here. Depends what type of holiday you are pursuing. If you want to stay by the beach all the time, you can spend also a week there. Otherwise, if Cefalù is part of a broader itinerary, one or two days should are more than enough to get the best of your visit. Having lived in Sicily for most of my life, I had the privilege of choosing Cefalù as a day trip during one of my visits to my family and I admit that one day was enough for my exploration.

How do I reach Cefalù?

Cefalù is very close to Palermo. Ergo, if you are in Sicily, is better to visit the city when you are in this area. However, Cefalù is easy to reach also from Catania (as we did). In this case, the road is just a little longer.

By car

If you are travelling from Palermo, Cefalu is just 1 hour away by car via the E90. While from Catania, is far 2 hours and 50 minutes via the motorway A19.

By train

Travelling from Palermo to Cefalù by train is very easy. Indeed, there is a direct train that you can take from the Stazione Centrale of Palermo that will leave you to the Cefalù station. This will take about 40-50 minutes and the ticket (one way) cost between € 6,20 – 9,00. From Catania is quite a lengthy journey. Indeed, it will take no less than 4 hours to reach Cefalù by train and you will likely have a change of train in Messina. The ticket cost € 15-20 (depending on the train).

Parking in Cefalù

As in many other busy Sicilian cities, parking in Cefalù can be a nightmare especially during the peak of the summer season. When we arrived (almost at lunchtime), Alessio gave me the worst of his look because of the parking-nightmare! Indeed, if you arrive by car on a warm day of August at lunchtime is likely you won’t find any parking. Or, (as in our case) you have to go around the city multiple times before finding a suitable spot.

Please be aware that most of the Cefalù streets in the historic centre are labelled as “ZTL” or “Zona a Traffico Limitato” which means limited traffic area. Ergo, you can’t enter or park in these streets unless you are a resident. Therefore, you should park your car in one of the official city parkings.

A main parking area is located in the Lungomare Giuseppe Giardina where you can find what Sicilians calls as “strisce blu” (aka blue stripes). This is a city communal parking where you pay the ticket according how much time you stay. However, this is not very convenient if you stay more than two hours. Indeed, these parking usually cost between €1-2 per hour. In this case, is better to find a private parking spot offering a whole day price. That day, for parking in Cefalù we used Parcheggio Nadino that is not too far away from the beach and city centre. It is located in Via Roma, 88, 90015. Here, you will pay between € 5-8 if you stay 6-12 hours.

Bucket list of attractions for your trip

Here it is a little bucket list of main attractions in Cefalù that you can use it for your itinerary! Pin it for later!

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