Laura
Last Updated on May 28, 2026 by Laura
Describing the feeling of visiting the Great Wall of China for the first time is quite difficult. It’s like the kid who loved history, the student and the historian who I become came there all in that very moment to say “you’ve made it here kid. Don’t cry”. For a long period of time when I was younger I was so obsessed by the Great Wall that my husband (at the time boyfriend) even created a photoshopped picture of me floating on the wall 😂. Who knew that almost 18 years later I was finally here, with my kids!!! If someone told me that, I wouldn’t believed it. If you are dreaming of visiting the Great Wall of China, you are in a good place. This guide will explain you everything needed for your trip from Beijing!
New to China Traveling? 🇨🇳 Maybe you want to read the below!
Table of Contents
A brief history of the Great Wall of China
Few structures in human history carry quite the weight of the Great Wall of China. Construction began as far back as the 7th century BC, when individual Chinese states built their own frontier walls for protection. It was Qin Shi Huang, China’s first emperor, the same man who ordered the Terracotta Army, who unified these separate walls into a single continuous barrier after 221 BC, using an estimated 300,000 soldiers and countless conscripted labourers to do it. Countless workers died during construction and were, according to legend, buried within the wall itself. It became known as the longest cemetery on earth.
What most visitors don’t realise is that the wall was never truly finished. Each dynasty expanded, rebuilt, or abandoned sections according to its own military priorities and resources. The Ming Dynasty, which ruled from 1368 to 1644, produced the version we recognise (and mostly visit) today, the grand stone-and-brick structure that snakes dramatically over mountain ridges. The Ming Dynasty was the final peak period of Great Wall construction, with the most complete defensive system and most advanced building techniques. At its greatest extent, the Great Wall stretched over 21,000 kilometres across China’s northern frontier.
The Mutianyu Section
Most visitors arrive at Mutianyu knowing vaguely that they’re standing on something ancient. What they often don’t realise is quite how ancient, or how many different hands shaped the wall beneath their feet.
The Northern Qi: Where It All Began (550–577 AD)
The historical roots of Mutianyu stretch back to the Northern Qi Dynasty, between 550 and 577 AD, when the imperial court erected the earliest defensive structures here to fend off incursions by northern nomadic tribes. These first fortifications were, by later standards, rudimentary, earthworks and basic ramparts rather than the towering stone structure you walk today. But they established something crucial: the strategic logic of this particular ridge. The terrain here gave defenders a natural advantage, and that advantage was worth protecting for over a thousand years.
What this means, when you think about it, is that the ground you’re walking on has been a military frontier for fifteen centuries. That’s longer than the entire history of England.
The Ming Reconstruction: General Xu Da (1368)
It was not until the early Ming Dynasty that large-scale reconstruction elevated Mutianyu into a paragon of ancient Chinese military defence architecture. In 1368, shortly after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang ordered the overhaul and expansion of the Great Wall to repel Mongol raids from the north. Under the command of General Xu Da, one of the emperor’s most trusted generals, construction unfolded atop the ruins of the Northern Qi wall, with Mutianyu emerging as an essential segment of this grand defensive project. Indeed, this stretch is distinguished by its massive stone walls, up to seven metres wide and five to six metres high, and by an unusually high concentration of watchtowers, positioned every 100 to 200 metres.
General Qi Jiguang: The Man Who Reinvented the Wall (1569)
This is the part of the story that, as a historian, I find most fascinating, because it involves one of the most remarkable military minds of the Ming Dynasty, doing something genuinely innovative on a structure that already existed.
In 1567, Qi Jiguang and Tan Lun, successful southern generals who had made their names fighting coastal pirates, were reassigned to strengthen the defences of the capital region. They submitted an ambitious proposal to build 3,000 brick towers along the Great Wall.
The number was later scaled back to 1,200, and the project began in 1569, marking the first large-scale use of hollow watchtowers on the Wall.
This matters enormously, and here’s why: up until this point, most towers along the Great Wall had been solid, with a small hut on top for a sentry to take shelter from the elements. The towers built by Qi Jiguang from 1569 onwards were hollow brick structures, effectively mini-castles, allowing soldiers interior space to live, store food and water, stockpile weapons, and take shelter from arrows.
At Mutianyu specifically, Qi Jiguang pioneered the concept of hollow watchtowers, transforming the original solid structures into hollow, multi-functional fortifications to expand defensive space and operational utility. Concurrently, he oversaw the brick paving of the wall flanks, added double-sided battlements, horse paths, and advanced drainage systems.
The double-sided battlements are one of Mutianyu’s most distinctive architectural features, and another thing most visitors walk straight past. On the vast majority of Great Wall sections, the battlements face outward only, toward the enemy. At Mutianyu, they face both ways.
Decline, Restoration, and Opening to the World
After the fall of the Ming Dynasty in 1644, Mutianyu gradually lost its military function. The Qing emperors who replaced the Ming came from Manchuria, the very north from which the wall had been built to defend, and had little interest in maintaining it. For centuries, the wall was left to the elements. In 1987, the Great Wall was selected as a UNESCO World Heritage site with Mutianyu seeing a restoration for over 2.5 km of his lenght. In 1988, the tourist area was finally opened to all visitors.
Before You Go: The Essentials
- Address: Mutianyu Village, Huairou District, Beijing
- Peak season (March 16–November 15): Mon–Fri 7:30am–6:00pm; Weekends 7:30am–6:30pm
- Low season (November 16–March 15): 8:00am–5:30pm
- Recommended time: Half a day minimum; full day to explore both wall directions
- Getting there: Car, hired driver, or organised transport, no metro access
NOTE: seasonality is quite important for the Great Wall with Spring and Autumn being the best seasons to visit. Indeed, during winter the Wall tend to be snowy and Icy and quite slippery to visit. During the summer, the landscape is at its best with incredible greenery surrounding the walls. Nevertheless, China is unbearably hot in the summer months so be prepared to sweat!
Why Mutianyu and Not Badaling?
This is the first question every first-timer asks, and it’s worth answering properly. Badaling is the most visited section of the Great Wall, it’s close to Beijing, heavily restored, and heavily marketed. It’s also, particularly in peak season, absolutely heaving with people in a way that makes it very difficult to have any kind of meaningful experience.
Mutianyu is different. It sits about 70 kilometres northeast of central Beijing, set among forested hills that give the wall a dramatically different character (particularly during summer): greener, wilder-feeling, more photogenic in almost every light condition. The restoration here has been done well: the wall feels authentic rather than theme-park perfect, and the watchtowers are genuinely impressive up close. It’s generally less visited than Badaling. This means that you have higher chances to have the wall entirely for yourself if coming early or during low season.
Most importantly for families: Mutianyu has the infrastructure to make the visit genuinely comfortable: an enclosed cable car, a chairlift, and the famous toboggan descent, without sacrificing any of its grandeur. It’s the section that rewards first-timers most generously.
| What about Jinshanling or Jiankou? These wilder, unrestored sections are spectacular for hikers and photographers willing to do more legwork. Save those for a return trip — Mutianyu is the right call for a first visit. |
How to Get There from Beijing
There is no metro line to Mutianyu, and public transport options involve multiple connections that can turn a 70km journey into a half-day ordeal. Here are your realistic options, ranked:
Option 1: Hire a Driver via Didi (What We Did)
This is what I’d recommend for most families and independent travellers. Open the Didi app, select the intercity hire option, search for Mutianyu Great Wall, and book a driver for the day. Your hotel concierge can usually arrange this too. There is also a section on Didi called “schedule” here you can book in advance for the day after. Payment is on completion of the trip.
The drive takes 1.5–2.5 hours each way depending on Beijing traffic. Budget CNY 400–600 (£44–66) for a return hire. I arranged this directly from the Didi app and paid CNY 625 for a return journey (this is about $90/£67/€77)
| Tipping your driver Tipping is not obligatory, neither expected. Similarly to Uber, you can add a tip at the end of the voyage. |
Option 2: MuBus
A popular independent shuttle service running from central Beijing directly to Mutianyu. Affordable, reliable, and well-suited to solo travellers or couples. Check current schedules before you go as these change seasonally.
Option 3: Organised Day Tour
Plenty of operators run Mutianyu day trips, often combined with another Beijing attraction. For families on a tight timeline, a private tour with an English-speaking guide can be excellent value, just make sure it’s a private tour rather than a rushed group bus. I selected a few below that I was looking myself before deciding to go indipendently:
- From Beijing: Mutianyu Great Wall Tours with Options
- Beijing: Mutianyu Great Wall Bus Tour w/Summer Palace Option
- Mutianyu Great Wall Private Tour with English Driver
Tickets: What You’re Actually Paying For
Mutianyu uses a layered pricing system that catches a lot of visitors off guard as they don’t expect so many options. My personal recommendation is to go with the combined package (access+ shuttle +gondola) and eventually add the toboggan/chairlift on a later stage. Here’s exactly what you can expect (prices updated 2026):
Base Entry Ticket
- Adults: CNY 40 (approx. £4.50 / $5.50 USD)
- Children (over 6) and seniors: CNY 20
This cover the entry to the scenic area. Not access to the wall, no cable car or shuttle bus.
Package ticket Access + Cable Car + Shuttle bus
- Adults CNY 200 (with postcard) CNY 180 (without postcard) – Includes A/R Cable Car + Shuttle bus. (Approx £22/$ 29.5)
- Children under 6 Free
To note the ticket is slightly cheaper on location compared online as we paid CNY 370 for 2 package tickets with postcard.
Shuttle Bus
This is not mandatory but there is a 3 km up-way, very steep road to walk before even reaching the base of the cable car so I warmly recommend to save your energy for the hike itself.
- CNY 15 return. This runs from the main gate to the cable car and chairlift stations
Getting Up (and Down): Your Three Options
Cable Car (Gondola) — Best for Families
- CNY 100 one way; CNY 140 return
- Enclosed cabins, 8 passengers, drops you at Tower 14
- Free for children under 1.2m (just under 4 feet)
- Most practical option for families with young children or elderly visitors
Chairlift
- CNY 100 one way; CNY 140 return (includes toboggan down if buying return)
- Open ski-style chairlift, drops you at Tower 6
- Not recommended for young children, feet dangle, no locking mechanism
- Pairs naturally with the toboggan descent (both run by the same company)
Walk Up
- Free, approximately 1,200 steps, 40–60 minutes
- Spectacular in cooler weather; punishing in summer heat
The Toboggan (Descent Only)
- CNY 100 one way
- 1,580 metres of stainless-steel track from Tower 6 down through the forest
- You control your own speed with a brake lever; the ride takes around 5–6 minutes
- One of the most memorable things you can do in Beijing
| Important for families with young children Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult on the toboggan. However, some operators (depending who you find) may decline very young children entirely on the day. We visited with our five-year-olds and were not permitted on the ride (even together). Go in knowing this may not be available for under-6s, so you’re not building it up as the main event only to be disappointed at the top. Our children were pretty disappointed. So better not promise anything! |
Toboggan Practical Notes
- Only available going down, from Tower 6 to the base
- Closes in heavy rain or after snow
- Queue is typically 15 minutes outside of public holidays
- Chairlift and toboggan are operated by the same company. A round-trip chairlift ticket (CNY 140) includes the toboggan descent
On the Wall: Where to Walk and What to See
The cable car drops you at Tower 14, the best starting point for a first visit. From here you have two directions:
Head West First: Towers 14 to 20
Start this way. The western section features the most varied terrain: steeper climbs, dramatic views, and the most photogenic stretches of wall. The ‘Ox Horn Edge’ around Tower 20 is where the wall curves dramatically with the ridge line. This is the section you’ll photograph most. Don’t rush it.
To note that almost at the end of this section there is a very (VERY) steep part of the wall. This is almost a vertical ladder and we ended up climbing it with both hands and feet. I recognise this section can be ultimately dangerous during wet weather or with snow. So pay particular attention if climbing this area (especially with kids). Steps are very tiny so one single mistake can make you roll down the staircase.
Then Head East: Towers 14 back toward 6
The eastern section is gentler, good for children, easier on the knees, and offers different vistas across the valley. This takes you toward the chairlift and toboggan exit at Tower 6.
On Timing and Crowds
- Allow at least 3 hours on the wall; 4 hours lets you explore properly
- With very young children, a focused 90 minutes is realistic and still deeply satisfying. Our children are a great exception as the run in the entire wall and completed the hike in under 3 hours.
- Early morning visits give you the best chance of sections to yourself
- By 11am in peak season, the most popular stretches get busy
- Weekday visits are noticeably quieter than weekends
Practical Tips for Families
- The cable car is your friend. Enclosed, stable, great views, the right choice both up and down for young children.
- Manage toboggan expectations. If your children are under 6, prepare them (and yourself) for the possibility it won’t be available. Position the cable car descent as an adventure too.
- Build in a proper lunch. The Mutianyu village at the base has decent restaurants. A sit-down lunch paces the day and restores small-person energy reserves. For fussy eaters there is also a Burger King.
- Don’t combine with too much else. The drive time alone makes Mutianyu a commitment. Let it be the main event of the day and give it the time it deserves. Our children wanted to finish the day at the Popland Park Beijing, which we found being a very nice way to conclude the day.
- Hiking on the west side towards the steepest area, one of the towers has a little stand with medals. This is a great way to reward the kids of their effort in hiking the walls. My kids literally adore their medals (they also picked up their favourite seasons each).
Staying longer? Check out these hotels
If you perhaps decide to stay overnight (maybe to get that beautiful sunset shot with half of the wall enlighten), there are some options you might want to consider below.
The closest hotel $
Literally within the scenic area, almost at the foot of the cable car, The Mutianyu Great Wall Hotel is convenient both in terms of price and location. Rooms are nicely decorated, breakfast is lovely and the view is an unbeatable 100 extra points.
The photogenic one $$
Awarded as one of the most instagrammable hotels in the Beijing area, Brickyard Retreat is beautifully colourful and with the most incredible mountain view one can find in the area. Incredible facilities (including a hot spring!), this is probably the best hidden gem you can find in the proximity of the wall.
The luxury option $$$
There are not many close-by luxury options near Mutianyu. So you will still need a car to get you around. However, at just about 22 km away from the wall, Yanqi Hotel, managed by Kempinski is your best finding in the area. This is located right next to the scenic Yanqi Lake and it’s the perfect place to combine an exploration of both the lake and the wall.
Visiting the Great Wall of China – Conclusion
I’ve seen a lot of remarkable things on this trip. The Terracotta Army, the Forbidden City, the karst pillars of Zhangjiajie. But there’s something about standing on the Great Wall that exists in a category of its own. The realisation of a dream. The real-life consciousness of the real scale off the wall. Once you realise that it doesn’t just occupy a hilltop, but it occupies the entire horizon, that feeling will hit you strongly. It runs away from you in both directions until it disappears over the next ridge, and you understand in a way that no photograph can quite prepare you for that this thing continues. For thousands of kilometres.
Built by human hands, over centuries, at incalculable human cost.
My five-year-olds understood none of that, of course. But they ran from watchtower to watchtower with the particular delight that children reserve for things that are genuinely, uncomplicatedly magnificent, and somehow that was the best possible response.
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